Double Feature III

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with James Dobson, discussing:
Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2015

I'm going to be honest, I couldn't help but feel ever so slightly ripped-off at Rei's latest outing... there's a little part of me that cringes when I see constructions like this on the catwalk as I can instantly imagine it flashing on peoples TV screens during the late night news, in that little 'light relief segment' at the end as an illustration of how 'wacky' fashion is, and Brian and Shirley sitting at home dunking their chocolate wheatens into their milky tea having a little chuckle and saying something like "You'd look good in that Shirley". 

For a label that is capable of moving people to tears, this collection, dare I say it, felt a little predictable. Sure, red, the most provacative of colours (yawn), the colour of harlots, cardinals and baboon's arses has a lot of power but after a few seasons of these hefty assemblages staggering down the catwalk wouldn't the next unexpected step be something positively wearable? 

Wouldn't that be more provocative?

/JAMES

All I thought was organs, organs, organs. Sarah Lucas, Louise Bourgeois, Hannah Wilke. So, feminism is in fashion. But then, the clothes were anti-fem. Why doesn't Rei just throw pillows on women?
/HORST





1. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2015
2. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2014
3. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2014
4. Cardinals Vatican City, 2013
5. Hannah Wilke Untitled, 1980
6. Louise Bourgeois Cell XIV, 2000
7. Sarah Lucas Nice Tits, 2011
8. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2015

A Short History Of Typography In Popular Culture VII

1. Barbara Kruger Untitled (Your Gaze Hits The Side Of My Face), 1981
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2002
3. Jay-Z Magna Carta Holy Grail, 2013
4. Barbara Kruger Untitled (I Shop Therefore I Am), 1987
5. Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 1997
6. Bruce Weber Helmut Lang, Fall/Winter 1997
7. Acne Spring/Summer 2013
8. Barbara Kruger Untitled (Are We Having Fun Yet?), 1987
9. Acne Spring/Summer 2013
10. Barbara Kruger Untitled (You Are Not Yourself), 1982
11. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 1998

Barbara Krüger collaborates with Kanye West. Louise Bourgeois poses for Helmut Lang. Raf Simons quotes the Sex Pistols. What they share is a 'cut and paste' approach and sense for the censored message. Black bars and red markers constitute their visual language. An advertisement for feminism, hedonism and consumerism. Are we having fun yet?
/HORST