Double Feature III

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with James Dobson, discussing:
Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2015

I'm going to be honest, I couldn't help but feel ever so slightly ripped-off at Rei's latest outing... there's a little part of me that cringes when I see constructions like this on the catwalk as I can instantly imagine it flashing on peoples TV screens during the late night news, in that little 'light relief segment' at the end as an illustration of how 'wacky' fashion is, and Brian and Shirley sitting at home dunking their chocolate wheatens into their milky tea having a little chuckle and saying something like "You'd look good in that Shirley". 

For a label that is capable of moving people to tears, this collection, dare I say it, felt a little predictable. Sure, red, the most provacative of colours (yawn), the colour of harlots, cardinals and baboon's arses has a lot of power but after a few seasons of these hefty assemblages staggering down the catwalk wouldn't the next unexpected step be something positively wearable? 

Wouldn't that be more provocative?

/JAMES

All I thought was organs, organs, organs. Sarah Lucas, Louise Bourgeois, Hannah Wilke. So, feminism is in fashion. But then, the clothes were anti-fem. Why doesn't Rei just throw pillows on women?
/HORST





1. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2015
2. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2014
3. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2014
4. Cardinals Vatican City, 2013
5. Hannah Wilke Untitled, 1980
6. Louise Bourgeois Cell XIV, 2000
7. Sarah Lucas Nice Tits, 2011
8. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2015

Death In And Of Painting

Artworks Katharina Ziemke

It is the sugar-glazed psycho terror of the 2000s. A feminine equivalent to Bisky, Borremans and Rauch, Ziemke is adding the hyper-hyper to magic and/or erotic realism. Artificially sweetened with jelly blood and military fetish.
/HORST

Parallel Genesis

1. Jean Cocteau Le Livre Blanc, 1930
2. Roy Lichtenstein Laocoon, 1988  

When I saw the Lichtenstein exhibition in London, I felt a moment of 'enlightment'. When an expressive brush stroke and a fine pencil line meet in mythological thunder and lightning, two genius' minds make love.
/HORST

Eau De Sanctification

1. Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott Gucci Envy
2. Frank Miller Gucci Guilty Pour Homme, 2010
3. Daniel Jackson Calvin Klein Dark Obsession, 2013
4. Unknown Gucci Envy for Men, 1998
5. Bruce Weber Calvin Klein Eternity, 1991

Besides established themes like romance, it is interesting to observe a dominance of religious motifs within the realms of perfume ads. Ingredients such as patchouli and incense position the olfactory creation as 'holy water', a spritz of sin.
/HORST

Pervert Priest, 2012

or 'Miusing Myself'





























Collar piece Miu Miu
Shirt Valentino
Jacket Dior Homme
Necklace Maison Martin Margiela x H&M

Once you define a theme and establish it as core of an unapologetic and atheistic world order, your beliefs are more than just denominations. They become manifestations of a self-centred religion.
/HORST

Religiously Transgender

Etro Spring/Summer 2013

Etro explores the essence of its original existence and idea. This time contemplating on the men's galabia and turban. Contemporary and successfully as I may conclude, contrary to first reviewer's opinion.
/HORST