Miusing Escher VII

1. Miu Miu Resort 2015
2. M.C. Escher Flying Fish (No. 73), 1949

The endless staircase built of and worn as macramé on a jungle-turned-water-turned-garden silk trousers drawing and osmosis watercolour blouse. The handbag is nothing but the supporting frame.
/HORST

Now & Then XV

1. Prada Resort 2015 (Steven Meisel)
2. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2003 (Mario Testino)

Living, breathing for contrast stitching and cross-stitched self-reference throughout labels and decades. From diffusion to main line, from womenswear to menswear. And back. Soon we will all be one 'same'.
/HORST

A Short History Of The Plastic Raincoat In Popular Culture VI

1. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2014
2. Thomas Bayrle Produzione Bayrle Coats, 1967-68
3. Prada Fall/Winter 2002
4. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2014

Never too late, never gone. The coloured plastic raincoat takes us back to 1949, 1967 and 2002. It is true that the future will always look old-fashioned. And the present will always feel like the past.
/HORST

Verschwende Deine Jugend, 2013

or 'Do Not Sit, Viciously'

Jacket Raf Simons
Shirt Miu Miu
Denim Shirt Dries van Noten
Trousers Cheap Monday
Shoes Prada

Indeed, I have a punk-heartfelt past. But mainly, it was revolting against oneself more than others. The anti-me-society. And within the (ripped) pages of magazines - pinned to the ripped wallpaper walls of a teeenager room - I found myself.
/HORST

The Marc by Miu Miu Jacobs Scandal

1. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014
2. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2012
3. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
4. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2010
5. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
6. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2009
7. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2012
8. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2013

By appointing Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier as the new creative power force behind the diffusion line Marc by Marc, a sleeping 'duo fatale' has been awakened. Shamelessly nicking the success formula of the rival house of Miu Miu, the end result can only be understood as open letter - or practical joke. All we witness is styling one-liners, same-same patterns and a long, repetitive punchline. No one is laughing.
/HORST

A Short History Of The Comic Strip In Popular Culture

1. Imi Knoebel Canapé, 1987 - 1991
2. Roy Lichtenstein Whaam!, 1963
3. Joe Brainard I Remember, 1970
4. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2009
5. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
6. Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2013

The onomatopoetic 'explosion' star. We encouter it in isolated form (in sculpture), as contextual placement (in painting and poetry), as well as random object (in fashion) - which, in turn, would lead us to a loss of meaning through its recycling in fashion and therefore speak for a reduced cultural value of the latter. But we will have to investigate further.
/HORST

Post Paris XXXI

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Bryan Rapp, discussing:
Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2013

 

"Wait a minute. What the hell do you call this?!"

– "Oh, I turned my jacket on inside-out."

"Well, you look like a damn fool!"

In the Seinfeld episode 'The Jacket', Jerry buys an expensive brown suede jacket. At one point he has to go outside while it rains, and to not ruin his new jacket, he turns it inside-out, exposing its candy-striped lining. And thus making a seemingly foolish impression.

The inside-out looking coats, dresses and skirts in the latest Miu Miu presentation with their lining-like, quilted and dotted fabrics, are all other than foolish. It's like the women in the 1940s had made a post-war re-work of the returning men's bomber jackets – turning it into masculine femininity.

/BRYAN

In my imagination, in a certain way, it was Miuccia Prada dressing Franz Kafka's sister. Her latest Miu Miu collection was a psychological short story, dominated by conservative restraint. Each exit was composed as a study of women: pending between business woman (fur), air hostess (scarf), nurse (handbag) and 'Amüsiermädchen' (print). Almost like a staccato of feminine codes, evoking elements of fiction and subsequent eroticism. Schizophrenic but logical.
/HORST








1. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2013
2. Seinfeld The Jacket, 1991
3. End of World War II Soldiers Returning Home, 1945
4. Alpha Industries MA-1 Flight Jacket
5. Franz Kafka Portrait with Ottla, 1915
6. Pacific Southwest Airlines Flight crew, 1972
7. Otto Dix Portrait of the Journalist Sylvia von Harden, 1926
8. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2013

More about Bryan Rapp BRINGTHERUCKUS!