Fashion Charts X

1. Prada Spring/Summer 2015

2. E. Tautz Spring/Summer 2015

3. Liam Hodges Spring/Summer 2015

Longing for perverse contrast stitching. Like Junya would do. Or Rei for that sake. Plain boring (Miuccia), innocent and boyish (Patrick) and workwear denim gone shizo-radical (Liam). Another top three.
/HORST

Tokyo Diaries VII

A mental travel preparation.




Benetton Kokeshi Dolls, 1999

An early introduction to Japanese street style, rapidly westernized as inflationary virus. Yet, one wishes to encounter its true and sincere form when putting the first step on Tokyo ground.
/HORST

A Short History Of Patchwork In Popular Culture

1. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2000
2. Robert Rauschenberg Windward, 1963
3. Robert Rauschenberg From The Seat Of Authority, 1979
4. Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2013
5. John Baldessari Hope (Blue) Supported By A Bed Of Oranges (Life): Amid A Context Of Allusions, 1991

The re-appreciation of re-appropriation: patchwork in fashion and art. As delicate layers (Rei and Robert) or harsh mismatching (Junya and John). Trusting in the contextual meaning of found material that is finding itself renewed.
/HORST

Fashion Charts

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2014

2. Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2014

3. Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2014

Longing for patchwork, from punk to Pitchfork. A common ground within the expected (Junya), unexpected (Dries) and anticipated (Raf). A secret pact between the artistic, commercial and hyped. My top three.
/HORST

Anti-Me Society II

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2013

The last hurrah by Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton was a self-revolting revolution. Showgirl punk with graffiti lettering, ruffles, sequins and feathered bras. Not giving a fuck was never that delicately well done.
/HORST

Anti-Me Society

Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2014

Revolting against oneself and a new-found appreciation of the 'ugly' were the core motifs of the Paris Spring/Summer 2014 collections - at least the stronger ones, namely those of Comme des Garcçons, Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe. Those who know will wear spiked boots next season.
/HORST

Verschwende Deine Jugend, 2013

or 'Do Not Sit, Viciously'

Jacket Raf Simons
Shirt Miu Miu
Denim Shirt Dries van Noten
Trousers Cheap Monday
Shoes Prada

Indeed, I have a punk-heartfelt past. But mainly, it was revolting against oneself more than others. The anti-me-society. And within the (ripped) pages of magazines - pinned to the ripped wallpaper walls of a teeenager room - I found myself.
/HORST

AFEW, A New Female

1. Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2014
2. Meadham Kirchhoff Spring/Summer 2014
3. Marques'Almeida Spring/Summer 2014

The female equivalent to ANEW, A New Male, these three designers are currently defining what womanhood means today. On the forefront: Simone Rocha. She gives us laminated prostitute nuns, shredded millionaire's daughters and confused catholic punk school girls. The anti-image of what women should be. And the ideal image of what women should be.

What Rocha shares with Meadham Kirchhoff is a tendency towards romantic codes: lace dresses, collared blouses, negligee tops. Yet, these codes are broken, smashed into pieces, destroyed and covered by snakeskin and PVC. Or ripped apart. Skirts have holes, tops are gliding down the shoulders. Yet, these dysfunctional conflicts are decorated and embellished. With pearls, with trims, with gold lamé.

The 'decoration of destruction' is also eminent in the designs of Marques'Almeida. The masters of frayed dyed denim and imperfect shreds of finest fabric. Together, these three designers create an eclectic image of women. Outgrown girls who still want to have fun. Women who do not accept grown-up womanhood. Who wants to live forever? They surely do.
/HORST

Spikes

1. Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2012
2. Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2006
3. Jaiden rVa James Spring/Summer 2010
4. Hermès Kelly Bag customized by Jun Takahashi
5. Gosha Rubchinskiy Spring/Summer 2009

It ain't over until you give it a try. And it is allowed when Thom does it. In good company with Gosha, James, Jun and Junya. For a fashion sin only exists when you truly commit it.
/HORST