Steampunk

Willy Vanderperre Faux Semblant, 2010

Organic, mechanic, bionic. Not much has progressed in menswear since future forecasts by H.R. Giger or Tstuomu Nihei. Their depictions unkindly agree that the future will be ugly.
/HORST

Chronology

1. Erwin Blumenfeld Vogue, January 1950
2. Daniel Sannwald Pop Magazine, Spring/Summer 2012
3. Steven Meisel Vogue Italia, February 2012

Continuing Man Ray's photographic legacy and experiments with solarization and overexposure, Erwin Blumenfeld created some of the most iconic Vogue covers. In a tribute to Richard Hamilton's 1969 'Fashion Plate' series, Ashley Heath of POP adds make-up to a photographic collage and Steven Meisel stages a fetishized peek-a-boo mask for Vogue Italia. While each approach is so different, the results feel so associated. The collective accoutrement: lips and eyes.
/HORST

Codes Of Decoration

1. Lara Jensen for Inbar Spector Fall/Winter 2012
2. Oscar De La Renta Fall/Winter 2012
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2009
4. Ben Toms The Divine Invasion, Dazed & Confused June 2012

Moths, crystal and pearls. When decoration does not just decorate but cover everything. In various degrees, the codes are challenged, the purpose of jewellery hyperbolized. More is more.
/HORST

Exoticism

Photos DC Chang

For some reason, these images remind me of the very great Mishima Yukio and his autobiographical novel 'Confessions of a Mask'. A piece of world literature that should be consumed by everyone.
/HORST

Appendix:

Mishima Yukio Confessions of a Mask, 1949

For further homoerotic discourse see HORST and HORST

Spikes

1. Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2012
2. Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2006
3. Jaiden rVa James Spring/Summer 2010
4. Hermès Kelly Bag customized by Jun Takahashi
5. Gosha Rubchinskiy Spring/Summer 2009

It ain't over until you give it a try. And it is allowed when Thom does it. In good company with Gosha, James, Jun and Junya. For a fashion sin only exists when you truly commit it.
/HORST

Genitalization

Matthias Vriens Plug of Flesh, Dutch #40

Relicts of times and things that do not exist anymore. I remember the days when I explored those editorials. And I took them seriously. A valid recommendation, proposal, approval.
/HORST

Double-Faced

Yves Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 1999

In 1996, Hedi Slimane was appointed men's ready-to-wear director at Yves Saint Laurent. In 2001, he left the house, declined the offer to resume Jil Sander and accepted the position of creative director for menswear at Dior Homme. In 2012, he returns to YSL.
/HORST

Untraceable

Steven Klein for Dutch Magazine

It is a confirmed fact that I have a magazine fetish. I always wonder if it is based on the genetic human pre-definition as 'hunters and collectors'. To maintain this need, I am currently on the search for back issues of Dutch. Please hunt with me.
/HORST