The Cyber Woman, Robots

1. D&G Spring/Summer 2001
2. Hussein Chalayan Fall/Winter 2009
3. Karl Lagerfeld Vogue, 2010
4. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2007

The fembot is the anti-emotional archetype of feminism, introduced in the 1927 silent film 'Metropolis' and repeatedly quoted ever since. Yet, the stainless steel surface remains projection screen for erotic fantasies. Femancipation is the construct of virtual porn.
/HORST

Wishful Thinking #4

Salvador Dalí Space Venus, 1977-1984

Long time desired, never acquired. It won't even be possible, ever. What would a contemporary equivalent be? A Sarah Lucas doll ('Nud') or distorted body with gun ('AKA Peace')? Or just some John McCracken sculpural nothingness ('Nine Planks IV')?
/HORST

Shilver II, 2013

or 'I Do Not Own Silver Trousers, Yet'

Coat Maison Martin Margiela
Shirt Bruno Pieters
Shoes Maison Martin Margiela
Socks H&M

The complete works of an incomplete look. In this reissue of Shilver, the artist explores the possibilities of an idea repeatedly applied on top of itself - similar to the process of silver coating.
/HORST

"Prada Banality", Post-Painterly Art VIII

or 'Fashion For Intellectuals' (FFI)



1. Isa Genzken Mona Isa IV (Dürer Selbsportrait), 2010
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2013

Within this art historical mishmash or 'mix and cash', Prada not only explores the canvas to frame a point of view but also creates installation views that we might associate with Isa Genzken, Anselm Reyle or Wolfgang Tillmans who stage the 'sheet', the paper, the folded fabric, the cutout, the collage as itself. Material as readymade, or, in case of Prada: fashion as post-curational act.
/HORST

Moiré Moanings

1. Ed Ruscha We Humans (spinach & egg white on moiré), 1974
2. Alexander van Slobbe Spring/Summer 1999
3. Ed Ruscha Magnetic (blueberry on moiré), 1974
4. Céline Spring/Summer 2011
5. Ed Ruscha Babycakes (blueberry & egg yolk on moiré), 1974
6. Rodarte Fall/Winter 2011

An unresolved trauma and my unfulfilled desire: to wear trompe l'œil metaphors. Moiré as sociologic experiment, food as paint. Letters on canvas, textile as art, clothes as buildings.
/HORST

Superficial Implant

Part II of 'Duplicate Diptych Week'



1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 1997
2. Gucci Fall/Winter 1996

From 'amorphous forms' (cf. Hans Arp) to 'organic plates' at Balenciaga and Gucci by Tom Ford, strict geometry is broken into fluid shapes. Designed as a golden armour, hidden as second-skin, revealed by cutouts.
/HORST

Prophetic Quality

Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013

Just minutes after a metallic compilation entitled Lamé, Jil Simons showed a variation of sliced geometric shapes in gold. Executed in quintessential minimalist form, as expected and as hoped for.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com

Lamé

1. Adam Plucinski Afterparty, 2013
2. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2004
3. Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell in Versace "Diamonds Are Forever" 1999
4. Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott Boyish, Love Magazine 2013
5. Prada Fall/Winter 2013
6. Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2010 & Fall/Winter 2008
7. Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2006

Silver and gold makes a pretty couple. One thing, we all agree on: Miuccia and Rick, Helmut and Ann, Donatella and Horst. The power couples of fashion. Metallic lamé as power dressing for the 2010s.
/HORST

Balenciaga Questions XXIII

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2007
2. Etro Fall/Winter 2013

When two collections bear a similar spirit, one might feel flattered, one might feel disturbed. This time, Etro took a bite, or let's say, a late night snack. It wasn't all there, but in the end, luscious enough for a short sugar rush.
/HORST

Drawn

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2013

Manga men, spiked headbands and evil perfection. The male equivalent to Anime beauty. The appropriate proposal for a pre-apocalyptic world. Japanese reality as tomorrow's fate: To die or to dye?
/HORST

Helmut Dialogues III

1. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2004
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012

It was the tear-dropping, last and celebrated collection of Raf Simons for Jil Sander for Helmut Lang. A metallic homage that left (no one) speechless. But the battle for fatherhood will be continued on an arena known as 'Dior Haute Couture'.
/HORST