Rug-Bi-Sexual

Jessica Mort Central Saint Martins Fall/Winter 2014

Taking a predetermined masculine idea and applying techniques that are traditonally perceived feminine (weaving, knitting, fraying), the polo shirt cliché is dissolving into gradient fringe dresses.
/HORST

Post London V

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Matthew Lindgren, discussing:
Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2014

Christopher Shannon took a trip through the fabric store for his spring menswear, picking up every bolt of fabric he could find: vinyl, denim, nylon, sheer. How Shannon used these fabrics seemed to be the idea of his collection: counterpoint. Sleeveless vinyl shirting, light floral silk sports shorts: unusual applications of fabric for traditional pieces. A strong sense of a range of athletics dominated the aesthetics, with some golf polos and double-waisted jogging shorts, but towards the end of the collection, Shannon's man went back to work in manipulated rubber shirts and shorts - a nod to the basketball courts he loves so much.
/MATTHEW

With a growing attention to textiles and an eclectic use of materials, Christopher Shannon is conducting an exercise in 'cross-dressing'. In this case, the term describes the (mis-)use of technological and feminine 'Stoffe' (synthetic fabrics) and therein ambiguous codes. Rubber and florals as pop cultural signs (for the fetish and domestic), projected as uniforms for a generation of 'Rausch' (excess) where codes of Hip Hop and transgender performance art submerge in acid, hair dye and vodka.
/HORST








1. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2014
2. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2012
3. Matthew Williamson Spring/Summer 2009
4. Mark Rothko No. 14, 1960
5. Robert Rauschenberg Untitled (Hoarfrost), 1974
6. Tupac Shakur 1971 - 1996
7. Paris Is Burning 1990
8. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2014

All about Matthew Lindgren

Silicon Dioxyd

1. Gerhard Richter 8 Panels, 2012
2. Roy Lichtenstein Mirrors (Studies), 1970
3. Roy Lichtenstein Mirror (6 Panels), 1970
4. Robert Rauschenberg Gull (Jammer), 1976
5. Robert Rauschenberg Reef (Jammer), 1976

From mirror panels to mirror studies to mirrored sheets. Five works that destroyed contemporary art practice. Like the splintered fragment of glass stuck in the bleeding thumb of today's pseduo-artist and his 'fast food installation' corpus.
/HORST

Moiré Moanings

1. Ed Ruscha We Humans (spinach & egg white on moiré), 1974
2. Alexander van Slobbe Spring/Summer 1999
3. Ed Ruscha Magnetic (blueberry on moiré), 1974
4. Céline Spring/Summer 2011
5. Ed Ruscha Babycakes (blueberry & egg yolk on moiré), 1974
6. Rodarte Fall/Winter 2011

An unresolved trauma and my unfulfilled desire: to wear trompe l'œil metaphors. Moiré as sociologic experiment, food as paint. Letters on canvas, textile as art, clothes as buildings.
/HORST

A Short History Of The Grid In Popular Culture IV

1. Sølve Sundsbø Dazed and Confused, June 2012
2. Kraftwerk
3. Tim Mara Table Top, 1989
4. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1989
5. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1992
6. Sølve Sundsbø Dazed and Confused, June 2012
7. Sarah Moon 10 Magazine, Spring/Summer 2008
8. Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2012

What if the idea of clothing was enhanced by holograms and light projections. Possibly controlled by bare thoughts. The Overprojected installation was a first attempt, the hologram fabrics by Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton an affirmation of this thought.
/HORST

Post Graduate

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Erin Hawkes B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2012
2. Gilbert & George Cabbage Worship, 1982
3. Robert Morris Untitled, 1976

First a close reference, secondly a related artwork, thirdly a random thing. Similar minds think alike and ideas are to be claimed. Whoever learns from the best and combines/manipulates their own thoughts will succeed.
/HORST