Drawn Faces Fight

1. Jan Lehner No Colours Anymore, I Want Them To Turn Black, 2014
2. Pablo Picasso Untitled, 1945

Looking back to the beginnings and discovering the category The Fight. Visual analogies that built the foundation of this aesthetic commentary. And let's face it, everything else is travesty. Yet, one could always wear Alex Bottenberg.
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Graduate Charts II

1. Asai Andrew Ta CSM BA Graduate Collection

2. Harry Evans CSM BA Graduate Collection

3. Flora Cadzow CSM BA Graduate Collection

They are coming. Mummified youth culture and shredded patchwork phantoms, miraculously not falling apart (Asai). They are twisted. Historic crochet sisters and fanatical knit nuns. Meet Marie Pearl Harbor (Harry). They are angry. Transparent tattoo bikers and religious tomboy boxers (Flora).
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Image credits Vogue

Graduate Charts

1. Andrew Sauceda CSM BA Graduate Collection

2. Michael Griffin CSM BA Graduate Collection

3. Ed Lee CSM BA Graduate Collection

Transgender aunts in strapless bustier gowns, workwear denim and floppy heads. The sexual revolution of a farmer's confused son (Andrew). The circus is in town and every male prostitute is going. An oriental silk costume drama with eruptive ending (Michael). Working 9 to 5 at the redlight wallstreet. Where horny investment bankers wear pinstripe suits and dragon tattoos, mixing business with pleasure (Ed).
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Image credits Vogue

Rug-Bi-Sexual

Jessica Mort Central Saint Martins Fall/Winter 2014

Taking a predetermined masculine idea and applying techniques that are traditonally perceived feminine (weaving, knitting, fraying), the polo shirt cliché is dissolving into gradient fringe dresses.
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Anew, A New Male

1. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2014
2. Meadham Kirchhoff Spring/Summer 2014
3. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2014
4. Martine Rose Fall/Winter 2013
5. Dimitri Arvanitis Graduate Collection 2013

I'd like to introduce 'Anew' as a new term for a new movement, a new school. After 'Antwerp 6' we have 'Anew 4+'. Constituting itself of Martine Rose, Meadham Kirchhoff, Dimitri Arvanitis and J.W. Anderson. Under kind custody of über-mother Rei Kawakubo, they are establishing what has been introduced as 'gender-bending', the 'metrosexual' or 'trans' and 'fear-male'.

Martine Rose delivers the core theme: 'Expect Perfection'. With lurex tops, cropped denim jackets and fabric-floating skrousers that recall Brenda Walsh, stilt and street walkers. Anderson, for his part, proposes blousy neckholder tops in decorative scarf/curtain prints - the after-effect of architectural experimentation. Kitchen, apron and housewife kitsch, rubber coats and sweat-wet hairdos are the identifying marks of Meadham Kirchhoff's fetishized male housewife. While Dimitri Arvanitis tarts up a clique of pony riding society gayls for their highly anticipated night out of the closet. So what and who is the Anew Male? A female pastiche? A reworked cliché? We see party girls, nurses, millionaire's devotees, call girls and ladyboys - starring in The Real Husbands of London, Paris and Antwerp. My question to you is: Are you one of them?
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A Short History Of The Plastic Raincoat In Popular Culture IV

1. Philip Lim Fall/Winter 2012
2. Veronique Branquinho Spring/Summer 2004
3. Aisling Farrell Graduate Collection 2012
4. Laurence Philomene for Snap Magazine
5. Bodybound Fall/Winter 2012, Pierre Cardin Spring/Summer 2011, Mugler Spring/Summer 2012

Maybe one of the most legendary series, the plastic raincoat recently gained the recognition it deserves and celebrated a comeback that dominates today's editorials and runways.
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P.S.: Post-edit upon popular request: the über-perfect version of a clear plastic raincoat by Mr. Raf Sander.


6. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

Post Graduate V

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Anita Hirlekar B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2012
2. Willi Baumeister Apoll, 1922
3. Samuel Drira & Sybille Walter encens 24, 2010

The lithographic image of women. An anti-sexualized, neutralized, androgynous graphic body. Birth child of Late Cubism and New Romanticism. If Braque was a Blitz Child. If Ann, Anita and Sybille were part of Les Demoiselles d'Avignon.
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Post Graduate IV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Luke Stevens B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2012
2. Yves Tanguy The Invisibles, 1951
3. Helmut Lang Make It Hard 2011

An assemblage of dip-dyed, glued-together pieces. Of raw, intuitive gestures, adding layer for layer for layer. Sportswear as a form of extreme DIY. Destruction as creation.
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