Secret Fear

Daniel Bedingfield - Secret Fear 2012

A true masterpiece. Francis Bacon, Jürgen Teller, Daniel Bedingfield. The nude self-portrait of an artist (as composed here). A stylized, disturbing vision. Deserving attention. Beautiful enough to mark a return.
/HORST

Striation, 2012

or 'The Times Is Now, On My Own'



















Knit Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane
Turtleneck Raf Simons
Jeans Cheap Monday
Shoes Raf Simons
Vest Ardency Inn
Stool Piet Hein Eek

The belated reaction to A Short History Of Stripes In Popular Culture and Hedi Slimane's controversial return. Enriched with the subtle dosage of 'pervert priest', it is a praise for the bipolar.
/HORST

Post Paris XXI

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Paris collections, presenting:
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2013

1. Yves Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane Fall/Winter 2000
2. Yves Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 1969
3. Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2006

This time, we are looking forward and looking back on Hedi Slimane's futurepast. A return and study of self-reference. Reflecting the heritage of his own as well as his new world. Decorated with glitter and many many bows.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking, Hedi Slimane

Mrs. Raf Sander, Epilogue

or 7 Reasons why the Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013 collection, presented by Jil Sander, was in fact designed by Raf Simons



1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2009 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"What I’ve been conscious of, from the beginning, is that I can’t be Jil Sander." - Raf Simons


2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"I was expecting a difficult path but immediately the reception was good and I was being called son of Jil Sander." - Raf Simons


3. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2010 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"Men's fashion is more complicated than women's." - Raf Simons


4. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2007 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"I spend a lot of time reading about artists, trying to figure out how they approached something." - Raf Simons


5. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2009 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"I am somebody who focuses on a dialogue between generations - that's the drive of my work." - Raf Simons


6. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"In this business, I know I could work somewhere else one day." - Raf Simons


7. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2009 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
“I am having to bring it back to our heritage.” - Jil Sander

Placement of typography, the grainy structure, the oversized suit, the sleeveless and the hourglass jacket. It is easy to identify constitutive elements of Raf Simons' design language. Jil Sander will need more time. Her real return will be in womenswear.
/HORST

Mrs. Raf Sander

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013

In the same way as Raf initially condensed the Jil Sander brand heritage, she herself returns, comrprises his thoughts and their claim on modernity. A story of archives and tributes to what she and he left. What was him is hers.
/HORST

A Short History Of The Plastic Raincoat In Popular Culture IV

1. Philip Lim Fall/Winter 2012
2. Veronique Branquinho Spring/Summer 2004
3. Aisling Farrell Graduate Collection 2012
4. Laurence Philomene for Snap Magazine
5. Bodybound Fall/Winter 2012, Pierre Cardin Spring/Summer 2011, Mugler Spring/Summer 2012

Maybe one of the most legendary series, the plastic raincoat recently gained the recognition it deserves and celebrated a comeback that dominates today's editorials and runways.
/HORST

P.S.: Post-edit upon popular request: the über-perfect version of a clear plastic raincoat by Mr. Raf Sander.


6. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012