The Moan Game

1. Wendelien Daan Dark Lights, Shine Loud, 2013
2. Flint-Fuyt The Belgian Beat, 2013
3. Collier Schorr Fantastic Man 2013

Walter van Beirendonck Fall/Winter 2013. A study in male glamour composed of lurex suits, python platforms and spandex turtlenecks. One of the strongest editorial collections that only rarely made it into stores. Why?
/HORST

Post Paris XXIV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Paris collections, presenting:
Veronique Branquinho Fall/Winter 2013

1. Veronique Branquinho Archive
2. Adriano Brusaferri Spindle tools used to calibrate organ pipes, 19th century
3. Satoshi Saikusa Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 1993

Paris re-opens the chapter of False Encyclopaedia. And since Veronique Branquinho's last show was my first show, this is an appreciation post. Celebrating craft, sincerity and stringency. The colour beige, the bustier top and turtleneck, the Belgian rigor.
/HORST

Identity Crisis

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2013
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2013

After a recurrent tribute to Helmut Lang via Jil Sander (the cross, the show credit print), Raf is channeling Miuccia. Just like Bette Midler and Lily Tomlin in Big Business (1988) someone swapped bodies. But somehow something got lost in transmission. And comedy turns into grotesque horror, see The Fly (1958).
/HORST

A Short History Of The Grid In Popular Culture VII

1. Unknown
2. Man Ray Venus, 1937
3. Daniele Buetti Blue Face (Lightbox #55), 2005
4. Hasse Nielsen Supergirl, Cover Magazine Novenber 2012

On its seventh installment, we are facing the face grid in four sections: mythological, surreal, virtual and editorial. Each dividing/slicing his or her countenance in equal fragments which results in a dominant and strictly 'square' world view.
/HORST

Glam Nerd, The

Ben Toms What If We Are, AnOther Man Fall/Winter 2012

There is a certain 70s sensuality that has defined the outcome of the latest issues of AnOther Man and Arena Homme +. I'd love to name this new genre 'Glam Nerd' - essentially characterized as the essence of David Bowie wearing Prada and Gucci.
/HORST

Striation, 2012

or 'The Times Is Now, On My Own'



















Knit Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane
Turtleneck Raf Simons
Jeans Cheap Monday
Shoes Raf Simons
Vest Ardency Inn
Stool Piet Hein Eek

The belated reaction to A Short History Of Stripes In Popular Culture and Hedi Slimane's controversial return. Enriched with the subtle dosage of 'pervert priest', it is a praise for the bipolar.
/HORST

1/3

1. Marteinn Jonsson
2. Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2012
3. Alexander Wang Fall/Winter 2012

Hidden lips, intellectual minds. Turtlenecks are a highly aggressiveattractive choice, preferably paired with short shorts. Once you veil, you should also reveal. I will wear one tomorrow.
/HORST

Obviously IV

1. Raf Simons x Fred Perry Fall/Winter 2009
2. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012
3. Prada Fall/Winter 2012

Thanks to the uncertain personae of Miuccia Simons, it will be all about the triple collar. Its interpretation varies from jacket on shirt on shirt to jacket on shirt on turtleneck to jacket on jacket on shirt. Continue the sentence.
/HORST