Double Feature V

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Iris & Daniel, discussing:
Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

Military fatigues infected by flower power, or the other way around. Before, they got married. Soldier and bride. Then they clashed. War and resistance. Then they dismantled. Grunge. Now they’re melted together, on the same body.

Everything was not really a skirt, or a shirt, or a dress, or a jacket. Lace annoying the shoulders and hems of an army jacket. Cargo pockets interrupting flounce. Plisé exploding from underneath aprons. Flat olive drab fronts ballooned in the back like a skydiving motorcyclist. We want to pick this apart and wear it with jeans. Maybe bell bottoms. Not nostalgically though, this collection wouldn’t let you be anywhere but now.

/IRIS&DANIEL

For some reason, those clothes reminded me of Rosemarie Trockel. Maybe just for the sound of the name. But also because of the sensuality for materials, her ceremaic and textile works. And then there was also some Kafka maybe. Because of the fur. Maybe.
/HORST





1. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015
2. Flower Power, 1967
3. Parachuting Dog, WWII
4. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2003
5. Nobuyoshi Araki Erotos, 1993
6. Prada Fall/Winter 2007
7. Rosemarie Trockel A Cosmos, 2013
8. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

Pole, 2013

or 'Not Safe For World'

T-Shirt Raf Simons
Shorts Comme des Garçons
Underwear Barcode

Madonna's 'Sex Book' by Steven Meisel, banned Calvin Klein commercials and Paris Hilton's sex tape - who is the judge, who's the voyeur? How can 'offensive' image material be so pleasing?
/HORST

Striation, 2012

or 'The Times Is Now, On My Own'



















Knit Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane
Turtleneck Raf Simons
Jeans Cheap Monday
Shoes Raf Simons
Vest Ardency Inn
Stool Piet Hein Eek

The belated reaction to A Short History Of Stripes In Popular Culture and Hedi Slimane's controversial return. Enriched with the subtle dosage of 'pervert priest', it is a praise for the bipolar.
/HORST

Process Method

1. Olivier Theyskens Spring/Summer 1999
2. Conquistador Fall/Winter 2011
3. Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2006

Almost like a linguistic experiment, the construction details build up a triad: brackets, bracket lacing, laced fringe. Each idea leading to the other. Within the flux continuum of fashion.
/HORST

Shape Enhancer

Stefan Zschernitz Masculine Mystery, dansk #28

The recent relaunch of dansk is an aesthetic success story. What has added the final convincing touch is an increase of the male content dosage. We all know what to wear now.
/HORST

Laced Up IV

1. Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2011
2. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2012
3. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2001
4. Versus Fall/Winter 2012

Wafting circumspectly from lace to lacing. Trying to figure out its (sexual) appeal. An attempt of explanation: closure that reveals, skin remains uncovered. It cannot be coincidence lacing is preferably being placed on women's cleavage and men's crotch.
/HORST

Balenciaga Questions XVIII

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2003
2. Givenchy Fall/Winter 2010

Probably one of my most favourite series, the infamous Balenciaga Questions are back for a short recall. This time revealing the alpine love affair between Nicolas and Riccardo.
/HORST