Double Feature V

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Iris & Daniel, discussing:
Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

Military fatigues infected by flower power, or the other way around. Before, they got married. Soldier and bride. Then they clashed. War and resistance. Then they dismantled. Grunge. Now they’re melted together, on the same body.

Everything was not really a skirt, or a shirt, or a dress, or a jacket. Lace annoying the shoulders and hems of an army jacket. Cargo pockets interrupting flounce. Plisé exploding from underneath aprons. Flat olive drab fronts ballooned in the back like a skydiving motorcyclist. We want to pick this apart and wear it with jeans. Maybe bell bottoms. Not nostalgically though, this collection wouldn’t let you be anywhere but now.

/IRIS&DANIEL

For some reason, those clothes reminded me of Rosemarie Trockel. Maybe just for the sound of the name. But also because of the sensuality for materials, her ceremaic and textile works. And then there was also some Kafka maybe. Because of the fur. Maybe.
/HORST





1. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015
2. Flower Power, 1967
3. Parachuting Dog, WWII
4. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2003
5. Nobuyoshi Araki Erotos, 1993
6. Prada Fall/Winter 2007
7. Rosemarie Trockel A Cosmos, 2013
8. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

Tokyo Diaries XII

A mental travel preparation.




Phenomenon Fall/Winter 2010

An empty suitcase without underwear to fill with 'other' things. In boiled wool, washed silk and polyester. Dress coats and pleated skorts. A Tokyoite wardrobe for the Post-Raphaelite.
/HORST

Prada Fantasies, Epilogue

1. Prada Spring/Summer 2008
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2014

Of course, there are also Prada womenswear collections that I missed. But yet, they do not remain out of reach of our collective heart forever. They return, they come back. Great Prada collections.
/HORST

Granularity VII

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011
2. Raf Simons x Fred Perry Spring/Summer 2014
3. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

The Raf Sander universe is a hermeneutic one. Colours and prints re-appear. In general, everything about Raf Simons' design approach is 're-istic'. Layered or traced through paper, from gender to gender.
/HORST

A Short History Of Patchwork In Popular Culture

1. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2000
2. Robert Rauschenberg Windward, 1963
3. Robert Rauschenberg From The Seat Of Authority, 1979
4. Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2013
5. John Baldessari Hope (Blue) Supported By A Bed Of Oranges (Life): Amid A Context Of Allusions, 1991

The re-appreciation of re-appropriation: patchwork in fashion and art. As delicate layers (Rei and Robert) or harsh mismatching (Junya and John). Trusting in the contextual meaning of found material that is finding itself renewed.
/HORST

Trend X-Plorer

Revealing trends that cannot and will not be picked up but should be nonetheless.
Part 1: The Hidden Painting

1. Acne Spring/Summer 2014
2. Walter van Beirendonck Spring/Summer 2014
3. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014

Ignoring the only logic and legal right for its very existence by hiding the allover print from maximum exposure, or deconstructing the artwork into a series of garments, this trend celebrates blatent disregard. Let's call it #IDGAF - the 'I Don't Give A Fuck' phenomenon.
/HORST

"Prada Banality", Post-Painterly Art V

or 'Fashion For Intellectuals' (FFI)


1. Mark Rothko Untitled, 1969
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2013

The style of paintings and digital works that build the layers of Prada's new 'salary men' have a tendency for - and present the cohesive idea - of 'abstract gesture'. Some references are literal (pattern), others are analytical (layers) or conceptual (collars) - but overall they function as exercises in turning flat reduction into 3D reality.
/HORST

Frills, 2013

or 'Bring In The Clowns'






























T-Shirt Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
Waistcoat Issey Miyake
Sleeveless shirt Valentino
Frill bib Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
Trousers Acne
Sandals Damir Doma

Staged in a Comédia Japonais, we are witnessing a frivolous play in three parts. A tragic costume drama based on the true story of a rose-frill shoulder, a crinkled stripe and a rushing collar piece.
/HORST