Tokyo Diaries XIV

A mental travel preparation.

1. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2011 2007
2. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2007
3. Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 1998

Another example of reversion as cultural adaption. Printed on the back, the pin-up of Western sex-charged trash culture is turned into a decorative token, treated with the same respect as a true masterpiece (or Dalí).
/HORST

Tokyo Diaries XII

A mental travel preparation.




Phenomenon Fall/Winter 2010

An empty suitcase without underwear to fill with 'other' things. In boiled wool, washed silk and polyester. Dress coats and pleated skorts. A Tokyoite wardrobe for the Post-Raphaelite.
/HORST

Now & Then XIII

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012
Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2002

The eel skin coat. When Raf Simons & Sterling Ruby decided to place patches with the cryptic reading of 'fathers' and 'abus lang' onto their collaboration collection, it may well be regarded as collective reassurance.
/HORST

Cut-Coat

1. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2008
2. Lucio Fontana Concetto Spaziale, 1959

Slitted, double-layered trompe l'oeil coats that demand relevance again. Sexually precise cuts, brutally forbidden peeks. Pastel-coloured 'destroyed' canvases that demand attention through irritation.
/HORST

Shilver II, 2013

or 'I Do Not Own Silver Trousers, Yet'

Coat Maison Martin Margiela
Shirt Bruno Pieters
Shoes Maison Martin Margiela
Socks H&M

The complete works of an incomplete look. In this reissue of Shilver, the artist explores the possibilities of an idea repeatedly applied on top of itself - similar to the process of silver coating.
/HORST

Amidst Oddity

Alex Franco That In A Crowd, My Eyes Always Search For You, 2013

When the realness of fashion photography and the image of real fashion is shocking, almost extraterrestrial, to real people, we come to understand that those who dare and wear are aliens.
/HORST

"Prada Banality", Post-Painterly Art IX

or 'Fashion For Intellectuals' (FFI)



1. Otto Dix Portrait Of Dr. Heinrich Städelmann, 1922
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2013

But why is Miuccia Prada referring to conservative codes? To suits, coats, ruffle shirts. Why is her proposal so bourgeois? Why is the movement of 'Neue Sachlichkeit' fashioned into 'Neue Spießigkeit'? Or, in other words: Why are 'we' re-evaluating conservative patterns?
/HORST

"Prada Banality", Post-Painterly Art II

or 'Fashion For Intellectuals' (FFI)



1. Anders Widoff U.T (Grammatik): 14, 1994-95
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2013

The clothes Miuccia Prada presented were nothing but not easy to understand. They were referring to multiple schools of modern art, multiple directions. Her sophisticated school boys, nerds and professors were symbols of an intellectual/artistic elite. And her fashion was tailored for the likes of David Salle, Michael Krebber and Anders Widoff.
/HORST

Post Paris XXVIII

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Alexander Fury, discussing:
Céline Fall/Winter 2013

Céline has always been about a reality of dressing. You could call it rational - like that dowdy mid-nineteenth century movement that encouraged women to cast off the shackles of their corsets and don by-and-large shapeless velvet garments that could have been sported by Mrs Arnolfini circa her Van Eyck portrait. Incidentally, she featured in the bumper inspiration book Phoebe Philo placed on every seat to unravel her latest offering. But of course, her garments were neither dowdy, nor shapeless, even when they seemed crafted from chequered laundry bags. That felt like an Arte Povera touch, a reversal of luxury - like Gabrielle Chanel lining her drab woollen coats in sable, the luxury hidden for the wearer. Likewise, those coats that looked like plastic pound-shop schmattes are probably amongst the most expensive of the entire season. And, somehow, along that route from laudromat spin-cycle to Céline catwalk, they have been magically transmogrified into the most desirable. It's a fashion miracle. Except there's nothing inexplicable about it.

/ALEX

Phoebe Philo's maximalist minimalism turns models back into mannequins. Clinging to clutches. Making sure the product is perfectly visible. The message "We are for sale!" is worn on their sleeves. Margiela's merchandise as jewellery comes to mind. The 'cheap' and mundane transformed into a luxury it-item. Infused with a 'slash' of vagina feminism. You need a bag?
/HORST








1. Céline Fall/Winter 2013
2. Hyacinthe Rigaud Louis XIV, 1701
3. Rachel Whiteread Embankment, 2005-6
4. Robert Mapplethorpe Patti Smith, 1973
5. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2002
6. Céline Fall/Winter 1975
7. Ida Applebrook Group H #4, 1969
8. Céline Fall/Winter 2013

More about Alexander Fury LOVE Magazine

Exhibitionist, 2012

or 'For Your Eyes Only'













Coat Whyred
Backless T-shirt Laitinen

His uniform is oversized, his coat unbuttoned. Hands casually hidden in deep pockets, carefully controlling the moment of reveal and indecent exposure. He is a son of Raf Sander.
/HORST

Exhibitionist, Prologue

Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012

She is caught in a liaison dangereuse. Cold hands clinging to her coat that will later serve as a robe. She is equally nervous and excited. Will this encounter be their last and only or just the beginning.
/HORST