Now & Then XIV

1. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014 (Willy Vanderperre & Olivier Rizzo)
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2003 (Mario Sorrenti & Panos Yiapanis)

Two power couples of styling and photography in the battle of decades. They fight for the attention of Raf, or RAF. Who will remain the winner? And why are we haunted by the ever-recurring image of rebellion/youth?
/HORST

Now & Then XIII

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012
Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2002

The eel skin coat. When Raf Simons & Sterling Ruby decided to place patches with the cryptic reading of 'fathers' and 'abus lang' onto their collaboration collection, it may well be regarded as collective reassurance.
/HORST

Now & Then XII

1. Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2014
2. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2009

Now that Jil has left once again, Raf might be in dire need for a substitute mother. Stella is embracing this moment and warmly adopting the loved, left and lost child and his minimalist ideas.
/HORST

Now & Then XI

1. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
2. Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2000

Fill in the circle. Don't cross the outline, don't look back. Carefully apply a shimmering layer. Place the circles, loosely stitch them onto the base. For quick results, apply glue. Stick to this routine.
/HORST

Now & Then X

1. Salvatore Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2014
2. Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2007

When DIY becomes DBN: design by numbers. We are living and dressing in a decade of things and ideas that have been. It is the last great 'Hurray' before the in-situ restart. Counting down, 3, 2, 1...
/HORST

Now & Then IX

1. Dior Resort 2014
2. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 1993

Candy crush, crushed candy. Mr. Sandior re-evokes a feeling, pre-infused by his mentor mother Jil Simons. A passed on history of Belgian-German maximalist minimalism, now turned Parisian.
/HORST

Now & Then VIII

1. Prada Spring/Summer 2013
2. Prada Spring/Summer 1999

Miuccia's Asian infusion. The submissive clichée of 1960s exoticism modernized and re-fetishized by means of asymmetry and the silk kimono side slit. Temporarily reducing power woman to house maid - as part of an intellectual role play.
/HORST

Now & Then VII

1. Acne Spring/Summer 2013
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012

There is a close connection/appreciation between Acne Studios and Raf 'Sandior' Simons. In this case, the almost unnoticed 'look 24' from 2012 delivers the main theme for 2013: block striped pyjamas. We might sleep, but our vision does never escape.
/HORST

Now & Then V

1. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall/Winter 2013
2. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2007

Naïvety comes in recurrent shape of comic(al) hats. And it has taken men a few years to be accepted within the realms of infantility, ruled by those ideas that Rei Kawakubo is introducing in successive doses.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com, Catwalking

Now & Then IV

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2010
2. Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 1997

In fashion, years are naturally mutliplied by ten to determine their true time value. Thus, Raf Simons' Tomb Raider collection for 2010 comes 130 years after its Belgian prequel. More than a lifetime.
/HORST

Now & Then III

1. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2012
2. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2008

Erase and remind. Attempt and retry. Apply and reverse. Start Photoshop, open either of these two 2D images and press ⌘+I. Save file as 'unforgettable memory', print it and stick it on your moodboard.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

Now & Then II

1. Topman Design Spring/Summer 2013
2. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1987

77 and 41. Numbers and cropped mesh should be on top of all our to wear lists. 1987 for 2013. Jean Paul Gaultier memories for all of us.
/HORST