ER - A - (S...)ER

1. Michael Krebber Systemic Relevance, 2014
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 1998
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 1996
4. Ed Ruscha Rabbit, 1986

Flying from Krebber to Ruscha via Sander. For obvious reasons, I am still faithful to the brand. Although left anonymous now. But besides all personality talk, it is the moment and concept that count.
/HORST

The Camp Of Plagiarism II

Alex Katz Round Hill, 1977
Steven Meisel An Interpretation, 1997

It is not a secret. For the Spring/Summer 2015 campaign, the newly redefined Loewe brand (directed by J.W. Anderson) is appropriating the work of Steven Meisel, who himself is appropriating a painting by Alex Katz. The truth is never/always sad.
/HORST

See also Nudist Camp

Chain Reaction II

fig a. A panel dress by Martin Margiela. And a panel dress by Maison Martin Margiela. Restaged in the latest pre-collection lookbook that looked back to the label's beginnings.

fig b. A trench coat by Veronique Branquino. And a trech coat by Veronique Branquino, accompanied by variations of Anderson and Anonymous (Maison Martin Margiela).

fig c. A black suit and the iconic image of Stella Tennant by Mark Borthwick. Two classics that set the tone for the retro-designer-triptych.

fig d. A pinstripe dress. A striped dress. A checked suit. And a shirt bra. The chronological emancipation of menswear, seen here pushed furthest by Anderson who always bows to and borrows from Kawakubo.

1. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2006
2. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
3. Veronique Branquinho Fall/Winter 2004
4. Veronique Branquinho Pre Spring/Summer 2015
5. J.W. Anderson Pre Spring/Summer 2015
6. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
7. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1999 & Mark Borthwick Stella Tennant, 2000
8. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
9. Veronique Branquinho Pre Spring/Summer 2015
10. J.W. Anderson Pre Spring/Summer 2015
11. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
12. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 1995
13. J.W. Anderson Pre Spring/Summer 2015
14. Veronique Branquinho Pre Spring/Summer 2015

The world is a faded cloth. Designers are looking back to their origins, their founding years. The 1970s via the 1990s. Even if they weren't there. Together, they are recreating classics.

Veronique Branquinho 2015 = Veronique Branquinho, circa 1995 (regaining)
J.W. Anderson 2015 = Comme des Garçons, circa 1995 (redoing)
Maison Martin Margiela 2015 = Martin Margiela, circa 1995 (remembering)

Their colours are beige, black and blue. Their garments are tailored and masculine with softened volume and deconstructed details. Everything is nostalgic like blurry sepia images in a family album. But unfortunately, those photos aren't real, they are the result of filters.
/HORST

Image credits Vogue

Tokyo Diaries XIII

A mental travel preparation.




Artworks Roy Lichtenstein

Around 1996 something changed. Viewing the 'other' side abruptly infused 'another' kind of painting: ink-screen printing. Dotted brush strokes that turned American pop art Japanese.
/HORST

Tokyo Diaries VII

A mental travel preparation.




Benetton Kokeshi Dolls, 1999

An early introduction to Japanese street style, rapidly westernized as inflationary virus. Yet, one wishes to encounter its true and sincere form when putting the first step on Tokyo ground.
/HORST

The Cave, 2014

or 'This Was The Birth Of The Modern World'

 

 

Collar piece Marques'Almeida
Jeans The Local Firm

When Jürgen Teller took those backstage pictures. And when Corinne Day shot that image of Kate. This prehistorical age between 1993 and 1997. It was forever declared that 'fashion is about attitude, not hemlines'.
/HORST

Tokyo Diaries

A mental travel preparation.




Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 1993

Documenting a world before arrival. The aesthetic pleasures one seeks to find. The consumerist mega-structures one desires to wander about. The conceptual fashion one wants to buy.
/HORST

Historiographed, Again

1. Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2014
2. Gucci Fall/Winter 1999
3. Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2014
4. Gucci Fall/Winter 1997
5. Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2014
6. Gucci Fall/Winter 1997
7. Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2014
8. Gucci Spring/Summer 1998

Tom Ford just re-did Gucci by Tom Ford (1994-2004). Red crocodile, leopard, lacing, plush fur and shiny leather. Fashion is cyclic - as it should be. And this cycle has proven itself to be around 13 to 14 years.
/HORST