Grand Poop

LAZOSCHMIDL Spring/Summer 2015

A collection that follows the storyline of contemporary performance art. Tracking down the fascination of body liquids such as piss, shit, sperm and spunk, the garments turn the perverse universe of Sarah Lucas, Paul McCarthy and Gilbert & George into rich textures and embroidery. Stains are re-interpreted as crystal applications on silk dupion and screenprint on organza. The obscene turns into decadence.
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Positive Extremism

1. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2015
2. John Galliano Fall/Winter 1997
3. Collier Schorr Base Portraits/Barracks, 2005

Straight pacifism. The most admirable beings united. Rei, Raf, Collier. Nipster fashion for the pre-digital, post-digital age. Those of us you live analogue digially. In Real Life. In Real Love. On- and offline.
/HORST

Inspired by Alexander Fury

Chain Reaction II

fig a. A panel dress by Martin Margiela. And a panel dress by Maison Martin Margiela. Restaged in the latest pre-collection lookbook that looked back to the label's beginnings.

fig b. A trench coat by Veronique Branquino. And a trech coat by Veronique Branquino, accompanied by variations of Anderson and Anonymous (Maison Martin Margiela).

fig c. A black suit and the iconic image of Stella Tennant by Mark Borthwick. Two classics that set the tone for the retro-designer-triptych.

fig d. A pinstripe dress. A striped dress. A checked suit. And a shirt bra. The chronological emancipation of menswear, seen here pushed furthest by Anderson who always bows to and borrows from Kawakubo.

1. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2006
2. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
3. Veronique Branquinho Fall/Winter 2004
4. Veronique Branquinho Pre Spring/Summer 2015
5. J.W. Anderson Pre Spring/Summer 2015
6. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
7. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1999 & Mark Borthwick Stella Tennant, 2000
8. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
9. Veronique Branquinho Pre Spring/Summer 2015
10. J.W. Anderson Pre Spring/Summer 2015
11. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
12. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 1995
13. J.W. Anderson Pre Spring/Summer 2015
14. Veronique Branquinho Pre Spring/Summer 2015

The world is a faded cloth. Designers are looking back to their origins, their founding years. The 1970s via the 1990s. Even if they weren't there. Together, they are recreating classics.

Veronique Branquinho 2015 = Veronique Branquinho, circa 1995 (regaining)
J.W. Anderson 2015 = Comme des Garçons, circa 1995 (redoing)
Maison Martin Margiela 2015 = Martin Margiela, circa 1995 (remembering)

Their colours are beige, black and blue. Their garments are tailored and masculine with softened volume and deconstructed details. Everything is nostalgic like blurry sepia images in a family album. But unfortunately, those photos aren't real, they are the result of filters.
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Image credits Vogue

The Intertext Of Hedi Slimane II

1. Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2013
2. Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2013
3. Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014

Until now, I wasn't that much aware of the Slimane gender blending. Yes, the womenswear invite showed men in suits (swaying a hat) and the menswear invite featured an illustrated (vaguely feminine) heart, yet, the crossing of sexuality seemed nothing more than a visual/conceptual tease. Androgynity was always on Hedi's Dior Homme agenda. With his offerings for Saint Laurent, it feels more like a campaign for asexuality. In fact, he creates duplicates, an intertext within his own world. That of sequins, bows and leopard print. I am buying it. Lipstick included.
/HORST

Granularity VII

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011
2. Raf Simons x Fred Perry Spring/Summer 2014
3. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

The Raf Sander universe is a hermeneutic one. Colours and prints re-appear. In general, everything about Raf Simons' design approach is 're-istic'. Layered or traced through paper, from gender to gender.
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