Fashion Charts IX

1. Costume National Spring/Summer 2015

2. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2015

3. Ermenegildo Zegna Spring/Summer 2015

Longing for neck scarf bondage. The one we will all start wearing again. Pre-2000 traumata reprised. As classic safari boy knot (Ennio), rubber rope stranglewear (Jonathan) or pyjamas suit necktie (Stefano). Another top three.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com

The Prarf II

1. Prada Fall/Winter 2006
2. Prada Spring/Summer 2001

In an attempt to complete previous thoughts, we ought return to previous thoughts. And ponder on previous thoughts. While we should never forget previous thoughts. Thoughtful.
/HORST

The Prarf

1. Prada Fall/Winter 2001
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2001
3. Prada Fall/Winter 2001
4. Daniel Riera Fantastic Man, 2014

A mischief comeback, the neckerchief is back - "want you back for good". Hard to pull off, it is rather and most likely to be tied - and not pulled off - around one's neck. Slim necks preferably. Prada, too.
/HORST

Granularity VII

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011
2. Raf Simons x Fred Perry Spring/Summer 2014
3. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

The Raf Sander universe is a hermeneutic one. Colours and prints re-appear. In general, everything about Raf Simons' design approach is 're-istic'. Layered or traced through paper, from gender to gender.
/HORST

The Marc by Miu Miu Jacobs Scandal

1. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014
2. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2012
3. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
4. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2010
5. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
6. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2009
7. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2012
8. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2013

By appointing Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier as the new creative power force behind the diffusion line Marc by Marc, a sleeping 'duo fatale' has been awakened. Shamelessly nicking the success formula of the rival house of Miu Miu, the end result can only be understood as open letter - or practical joke. All we witness is styling one-liners, same-same patterns and a long, repetitive punchline. No one is laughing.
/HORST

History X-Neck

1. Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2013
2. Carven Fall/Winter 2013

Something solid becomes manifest when it is repeated at least twice. Synchronously. Mark these words with an 'X' – or wrap yourself in the latter. 'Cross' dressing, symbolically. As unisex proposition, the neck is herewith declared the focal point.
/HORST

Granularity VI

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 1999
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2008
3. Dior Fall/Winter 2013
4. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2008
5. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2013

The Raf Sander universe is a hermeneutic one. Mind-picking one element, one detail in its recurrent shape. The neck as one centre of his architecture. When something fluid becomes solid, we might baptise him Raf Sandior.
/HORST

Irruption

Ungaro Fall/Winter 2006

What happened at Ungaro in 2006? A foreshadowing of Raf Simons' all-leather Gestapo army for Jil Sander? Plus the Lanvin-specific neck scarf and an exquisit casting? I sense an Ann vibe, too.
/HORST