The Camp Of Plagiarism II

Alex Katz Round Hill, 1977
Steven Meisel An Interpretation, 1997

It is not a secret. For the Spring/Summer 2015 campaign, the newly redefined Loewe brand (directed by J.W. Anderson) is appropriating the work of Steven Meisel, who himself is appropriating a painting by Alex Katz. The truth is never/always sad.
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See also Nudist Camp

Fashion Charts IX

1. Costume National Spring/Summer 2015

2. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2015

3. Ermenegildo Zegna Spring/Summer 2015

Longing for neck scarf bondage. The one we will all start wearing again. Pre-2000 traumata reprised. As classic safari boy knot (Ennio), rubber rope stranglewear (Jonathan) or pyjamas suit necktie (Stefano). Another top three.
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Image credits Style.com

Fashion Charts VIII

1. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2015

2. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2015

3. Topman Design Spring/Summer 2015

Longing for retro stripes. The ones we wore twenty years ago and were happy to get rid of when we moved away from home. Thrown over like a blanket from grandmother (Jonathan), sporty as in Sporty Spice (Christopher) and stripper-stripy as in 1970s porn (Gordon). Another top three.
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Image credits Vogue

Chain Reaction II

fig a. A panel dress by Martin Margiela. And a panel dress by Maison Martin Margiela. Restaged in the latest pre-collection lookbook that looked back to the label's beginnings.

fig b. A trench coat by Veronique Branquino. And a trech coat by Veronique Branquino, accompanied by variations of Anderson and Anonymous (Maison Martin Margiela).

fig c. A black suit and the iconic image of Stella Tennant by Mark Borthwick. Two classics that set the tone for the retro-designer-triptych.

fig d. A pinstripe dress. A striped dress. A checked suit. And a shirt bra. The chronological emancipation of menswear, seen here pushed furthest by Anderson who always bows to and borrows from Kawakubo.

1. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2006
2. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
3. Veronique Branquinho Fall/Winter 2004
4. Veronique Branquinho Pre Spring/Summer 2015
5. J.W. Anderson Pre Spring/Summer 2015
6. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
7. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1999 & Mark Borthwick Stella Tennant, 2000
8. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
9. Veronique Branquinho Pre Spring/Summer 2015
10. J.W. Anderson Pre Spring/Summer 2015
11. Maison Martin Margiela Pre Spring/Summer 2015
12. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 1995
13. J.W. Anderson Pre Spring/Summer 2015
14. Veronique Branquinho Pre Spring/Summer 2015

The world is a faded cloth. Designers are looking back to their origins, their founding years. The 1970s via the 1990s. Even if they weren't there. Together, they are recreating classics.

Veronique Branquinho 2015 = Veronique Branquinho, circa 1995 (regaining)
J.W. Anderson 2015 = Comme des Garçons, circa 1995 (redoing)
Maison Martin Margiela 2015 = Martin Margiela, circa 1995 (remembering)

Their colours are beige, black and blue. Their garments are tailored and masculine with softened volume and deconstructed details. Everything is nostalgic like blurry sepia images in a family album. But unfortunately, those photos aren't real, they are the result of filters.
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Image credits Vogue

Fashion Charts VI

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2014

2. Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2014

3. J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2014

Longing for the cinched and pinched. With underlying masochistic pain and German-ness. The game of codes (Jil/Anonymous), the touch of ghosts (Tomas), the loss of hopes (Jonathan). Be ready for the touch of invisible hands.
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The Céline Code

1. Céline Spring/Summer 2014
2. Burberry Fall/Winter 2014
3. Céline Spring/Summer 2014
4. J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2014
5. Céline Spring/Summer 2014
6. James Long Fall/Winter 2014

For Spring/Summer 2014, Phoebe Philo proposed a chaotic 1980s appretiation with raw brush strokes in primary Bauhaus colours. One season later, Long, Anderson and Bailey deliver the matching menswear look. A sad testament to men-design-hood.
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Psycho Teddy, 2014

or 'Going Down In La La Land'

Top J.W. Anderson
Shirt Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
Trousers Comme des Garçons Homme Plus

My new imaginary-non-imaginary friend comes in shape of a children's toy gone wrong. Jacquard woven in signal colours, this companion has an alarming effect on passers-by. Whispering with a grim smile: 'W-A-R-N-I-N-G. I'll take you with me.'
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A Short History Of The Bandeau Top In Popular Culture II

1. Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 1998
2. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2010, David Elfin Spring/Summer 2010, Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2009
3. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2010
4. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2014
5. Julius Spring/Summer 2012

The manly adaption is owned by Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and Raf Simons. Visually cutting away shoulder and arms from the rest of the body, the foremost muscular parts are put on display. A study of the fragmented male.
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