The Céline Code

1. Céline Spring/Summer 2014
2. Burberry Fall/Winter 2014
3. Céline Spring/Summer 2014
4. J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2014
5. Céline Spring/Summer 2014
6. James Long Fall/Winter 2014

For Spring/Summer 2014, Phoebe Philo proposed a chaotic 1980s appretiation with raw brush strokes in primary Bauhaus colours. One season later, Long, Anderson and Bailey deliver the matching menswear look. A sad testament to men-design-hood.
/HORST

Globetrotters, or: A Collector's Collection

1. Dior Fall/Winter 2013
2. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
3. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
4. Dior Spring/Summer 2014
5. Dior Fall/Winter 2013 & Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
6. Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2013 & Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014

I love the fact that, in a way, the collaboration of Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby has delivered a masculinized, messier, multiplied version of the Dior cosmos. And now, for women as for men, it is all about the statement shoe and the statement bag.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com

Granularity IV

1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2013
2. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2010
3. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2003
4. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

The Raf Sander universe is a hermeneutic one. The face reappears. From Bauhaus and Brian Calvin at Raf Simons to Tsuguharu Foujita and Picasso at Jil Sander. It's a two-faced story.
/HORST

Appendix: Looking back, looking left and right.

5. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2003
6. Givenchy Spring/Summer 2013

Mrs. Raf Sander

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013

In the same way as Raf initially condensed the Jil Sander brand heritage, she herself returns, comrprises his thoughts and their claim on modernity. A story of archives and tributes to what she and he left. What was him is hers.
/HORST