Double Feature IV

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Matthew Attard Navarro, discussing:
Dior Spring/Summer 2015

Dior - Madame/Mrs/Ms. Dior all in one. No better time to be in Paris and this season really proves this. The LVMH family finally realised that the buyers of tomorrow must be wowed over today - and this Dior collection is exactly that, a pleasing collection for the previous generation of Dior owners, and a search for the new. After this season closes there'll be no surprises as to why Tait won that designer award. Is it all a bit too much?

/MATTHEW

What starts as blank minimalism with space age references, twists and turns via the baroque (Marie Antoinette robes) towards Tirolean folklore (floral embroidery) and handicraft tradition (knitted heels with woven-in contrast threads). A post-Disney, postmodernist fairytale.
/HORST





1. Dior Spring/Summer 2015
2. Giovanni Michelotti Matra Laser, 1971
3. Clement Chabernaud Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2007
4. Unknown
5. Jeff Koons Bound Of Flowers, 1991
6. Sigourney Weaver Alien, 1979
7. Fantaghirò Still, 1991-1996
8. Dior Spring/Summer 2015

ER - A - (S...)ER

1. Michael Krebber Systemic Relevance, 2014
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 1998
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 1996
4. Ed Ruscha Rabbit, 1986

Flying from Krebber to Ruscha via Sander. For obvious reasons, I am still faithful to the brand. Although left anonymous now. But besides all personality talk, it is the moment and concept that count.
/HORST

Garanularity IX

1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012
3. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015
4. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012
5. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015
6. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
7. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015
8. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015 & Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
9. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015 & Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2013
10. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015 & Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2013
11. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015 & Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014

The Raf Sandior universe is a hermeneutic one. This time, he payed homage to himself. More precisely, the last two years. The cocky statement of self-reflection. The sailor flap jacket. The uni-denim-form. The patch, the sleeve, wet stray boy hair. Masturbational.
/HORST

Chain Reaction

fig a. Wang bases his collection on the Raf Sander 'Tomb Raider' silhouette of panty shorts and rubber boots. He then cross-references the Raf Dior slash fabric technique, almost creating the exact clone in black and hot pink.

fig b. Raf Sandior openly declared his admiration for Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela, yet his designs are built on the tradition of Ghesquière for Balenciaga. Pictured above is the dramaturgical step-up. From sci-fi glasses and stiff sleeveless coats (2007) to vulgar florals and rubber (2011) to stained-glass prints (2012).

fig c. In contrast, Nicolas Ghesquière does not even reference himself. He explores a 1970s feminist architecture for Louis Vuitton without being architectural. His reference is based on culture not fellow creators. And since our future will most likely look like the past, retro-collars and tinted sunglasses are the valid signifiers of our times. Francisco Costa's collection for Calvin Klein evokes a parallel mood that arose from genuine exploration instead of wretched duplication. Applause, please.

1. Alexander Wang for Balenciaga Pre Spring/Summer 2015 & Raf Simons for Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2010
2. Alexander Wang for Balenciaga Pre Spring/Summer 2015 & Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2013
3. Alexander Wang for Balenciaga Pre Spring/Summer 2015
4. Raf Simons for Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2013
5. Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2007
6. Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011
7. Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2012
8. Raf Simons for Christian Dior Pre Spring/Summer 2015
9. Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton Pre Spring/Summer 2015
10. Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein Pre Spring/Summer 2015

The world is Ouroboros and the future is returning. Wang turns to Simons turns to Ghesquière. As usual, the sequel is entertaining and perfectly fulfills all expectations. Yet, the satisfaction comes too early and disappears too soon. A plot summary:

Alexander Wang for Balenciaga = Raf Simons for Jil Sander & Christian Dior (trying)
Raf Simons for Christian Dior = Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga (borrowing)
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton = Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton (being)

Their new heroine seeks to look strong and sexy. Phrases that please everyone. Blockbuster couture. But no one is handing out popcorn.
/HORST

Image credits Vogue, Catwalking

Granularity VII

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011
2. Raf Simons x Fred Perry Spring/Summer 2014
3. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

The Raf Sander universe is a hermeneutic one. Colours and prints re-appear. In general, everything about Raf Simons' design approach is 're-istic'. Layered or traced through paper, from gender to gender.
/HORST