Denudity

Hood By Air Fall/Winter 2014

Remove the three letters, ignore the branding and the sportswear stripes. Take the pieces that no one dares to buy. Remove your clothes. Let the thoughts behind those garments uncover you.
/HORST

Garanularity IX

1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012
3. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015
4. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012
5. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015
6. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
7. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015
8. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015 & Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
9. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015 & Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2013
10. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015 & Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2013
11. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015 & Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014

The Raf Sandior universe is a hermeneutic one. This time, he payed homage to himself. More precisely, the last two years. The cocky statement of self-reflection. The sailor flap jacket. The uni-denim-form. The patch, the sleeve, wet stray boy hair. Masturbational.
/HORST

Fashion Charts X

1. Prada Spring/Summer 2015

2. E. Tautz Spring/Summer 2015

3. Liam Hodges Spring/Summer 2015

Longing for perverse contrast stitching. Like Junya would do. Or Rei for that sake. Plain boring (Miuccia), innocent and boyish (Patrick) and workwear denim gone shizo-radical (Liam). Another top three.
/HORST

Graduate Charts II

1. Asai Andrew Ta CSM BA Graduate Collection

2. Harry Evans CSM BA Graduate Collection

3. Flora Cadzow CSM BA Graduate Collection

They are coming. Mummified youth culture and shredded patchwork phantoms, miraculously not falling apart (Asai). They are twisted. Historic crochet sisters and fanatical knit nuns. Meet Marie Pearl Harbor (Harry). They are angry. Transparent tattoo bikers and religious tomboy boxers (Flora).
/HORST

Image credits Vogue

Graduate Charts

1. Andrew Sauceda CSM BA Graduate Collection

2. Michael Griffin CSM BA Graduate Collection

3. Ed Lee CSM BA Graduate Collection

Transgender aunts in strapless bustier gowns, workwear denim and floppy heads. The sexual revolution of a farmer's confused son (Andrew). The circus is in town and every male prostitute is going. An oriental silk costume drama with eruptive ending (Michael). Working 9 to 5 at the redlight wallstreet. Where horny investment bankers wear pinstripe suits and dragon tattoos, mixing business with pleasure (Ed).
/HORST

Image credits Vogue

Full Circle, or: Happy Quickly After

1. Jürgen Teller Sarah Lucas At Home, 2013
2. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
3. Alasdair McLellan Arena Homme Plus, 2014
4. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014 & Jürgen Teller Sarah Lucas At Home, 2013

What started between Sarah and Jürgen in an intimate home story, has been picked up and processed in a labour of love between Raf and Sterling - just to be shot again, with Alasdair washing the acid dishes.
/HORST

A Short History Of The Apron In Popular Culture

1. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2013
2. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2004
3. Joseph Beuys Backrest For A Fine-Limbed Person, 1972

While icon of domestic (supression) and household chores of 1950s Germania/Americana, the apron bares both - a sensitive and brutal subtext, once put into male context. The butcher, the craftsman, the sculptor. Put shortly, the misunderstood artist on the threshold from genius to madness.
/HORST