Belated Regrets, And Again

1. Costume National Fall/Winter 2013
2. Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2013

It's too late to apologize. Clog and clog-alikes. Worn with or without socks. Missing something sucks. Luckily, fashion always returns. Some do, others follow, other-others are chasing missed opportunities. With or without socks. Think twice.
/HORST

Image credits Vogue.co.uk

Fashion Charts X

1. Prada Spring/Summer 2015

2. E. Tautz Spring/Summer 2015

3. Liam Hodges Spring/Summer 2015

Longing for perverse contrast stitching. Like Junya would do. Or Rei for that sake. Plain boring (Miuccia), innocent and boyish (Patrick) and workwear denim gone shizo-radical (Liam). Another top three.
/HORST

Fashion Charts IX

1. Costume National Spring/Summer 2015

2. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2015

3. Ermenegildo Zegna Spring/Summer 2015

Longing for neck scarf bondage. The one we will all start wearing again. Pre-2000 traumata reprised. As classic safari boy knot (Ennio), rubber rope stranglewear (Jonathan) or pyjamas suit necktie (Stefano). Another top three.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com

Fashion Charts VIII

1. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2015

2. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2015

3. Topman Design Spring/Summer 2015

Longing for retro stripes. The ones we wore twenty years ago and were happy to get rid of when we moved away from home. Thrown over like a blanket from grandmother (Jonathan), sporty as in Sporty Spice (Christopher) and stripper-stripy as in 1970s porn (Gordon). Another top three.
/HORST

Image credits Vogue

Tokyo Diaries VII

A mental travel preparation.




Benetton Kokeshi Dolls, 1999

An early introduction to Japanese street style, rapidly westernized as inflationary virus. Yet, one wishes to encounter its true and sincere form when putting the first step on Tokyo ground.
/HORST

The Prarf

1. Prada Fall/Winter 2001
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2001
3. Prada Fall/Winter 2001
4. Daniel Riera Fantastic Man, 2014

A mischief comeback, the neckerchief is back - "want you back for good". Hard to pull off, it is rather and most likely to be tied - and not pulled off - around one's neck. Slim necks preferably. Prada, too.
/HORST

Couples V

1. Carven Fall/Winter 2014
2. Lanvin Fall/Winter 2014

Lanvin was very Fantastic Planet and Carven all about surrealist collage. What unites them both is the recurring image of 'hands', the fetish subject/object of Man Ray's work. Hands are back and trending.
/HORST

A Short History Of The Plastic Raincoat In Popular Culture VI

1. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2014
2. Thomas Bayrle Produzione Bayrle Coats, 1967-68
3. Prada Fall/Winter 2002
4. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2014

Never too late, never gone. The coloured plastic raincoat takes us back to 1949, 1967 and 2002. It is true that the future will always look old-fashioned. And the present will always feel like the past.
/HORST

Thorny

1. Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2014
2. GFF by Gianfranco Ferré Spring/Summer 2003
3. Alexander van Slobbe Spring/Summer 1999

The sleeping prince has been kissed by a rose. As graphic scribble, outline print or cut-and-paste laminate appliqué. The next bouquet of flowers best comes in the form of a pinstripe suit.
/HORST

Fashion Charts VII

1. Céline Fall/Winter 2014

2. Stella McCartney Fall/Winter 2014

3. Missoni Fall/Winter 2014

Longing for plastic fantastic embellishments. Toys 'R' Her - that only money can buy. The careerist (Phoebe), the feminist (Stella), the female nerd (Angela). The Parisian woman is emancipating her inner child. Which is her interpretation of men-erism.
/HORST

Fashion Charts V

1. Simone Rocha Fall/Winter 2014

2. Sportmax Fall/Winter 2014

3. Gucci Fall/Winter 2014

Longing for super snakeskin. Colourized and streamlined. Total perfection (Simone), total adaption (Sportmax), total redemption (Gucci). Milan and London is dressing for the transgender woman at heart.
/HORST

A Short History Of Patchwork In Popular Culture

1. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2000
2. Robert Rauschenberg Windward, 1963
3. Robert Rauschenberg From The Seat Of Authority, 1979
4. Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2013
5. John Baldessari Hope (Blue) Supported By A Bed Of Oranges (Life): Amid A Context Of Allusions, 1991

The re-appreciation of re-appropriation: patchwork in fashion and art. As delicate layers (Rei and Robert) or harsh mismatching (Junya and John). Trusting in the contextual meaning of found material that is finding itself renewed.
/HORST