Miusing Escher VII

1. Miu Miu Resort 2015
2. M.C. Escher Flying Fish (No. 73), 1949

The endless staircase built of and worn as macramé on a jungle-turned-water-turned-garden silk trousers drawing and osmosis watercolour blouse. The handbag is nothing but the supporting frame.
/HORST

Now & Then XV

1. Prada Resort 2015 (Steven Meisel)
2. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2003 (Mario Testino)

Living, breathing for contrast stitching and cross-stitched self-reference throughout labels and decades. From diffusion to main line, from womenswear to menswear. And back. Soon we will all be one 'same'.
/HORST

ER - A - (S...)ER

1. Michael Krebber Systemic Relevance, 2014
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 1998
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 1996
4. Ed Ruscha Rabbit, 1986

Flying from Krebber to Ruscha via Sander. For obvious reasons, I am still faithful to the brand. Although left anonymous now. But besides all personality talk, it is the moment and concept that count.
/HORST

The Camp Of Plagiarism II

Alex Katz Round Hill, 1977
Steven Meisel An Interpretation, 1997

It is not a secret. For the Spring/Summer 2015 campaign, the newly redefined Loewe brand (directed by J.W. Anderson) is appropriating the work of Steven Meisel, who himself is appropriating a painting by Alex Katz. The truth is never/always sad.
/HORST

See also Nudist Camp

A Short History Of The Comic Strip In Popular Culture XVII

1. Unknown (X-MEN)
2. Cary Kwok Pop In The Eye, 2013
3. Unknown (Disney)
4. Unknown
5. Raymond Pettibon Unknown
6. Comme des Garçons Shirt Spring/Summer 2008
7. John Wesley Woman On Top (detail), 1996
8. John Wesley Untitled (Woman With Glasses, detail), 2004

Sex metaphors within comic. Usually a pastiche or web manipulation, the signals of intercourse via flat colour fields are a recurring fantasy in a seemingly forbidden, sexually neutral, non-physical, hypothetic and pre-adulthood cultural context. Sex in comic is another last taboo.
/HORST

Tokyo Diaries VII

A mental travel preparation.




Benetton Kokeshi Dolls, 1999

An early introduction to Japanese street style, rapidly westernized as inflationary virus. Yet, one wishes to encounter its true and sincere form when putting the first step on Tokyo ground.
/HORST

Tokyo Diaries IV

A mental travel preparation.

1. Pleats Please Happy Anniversary, 2012
2. Nobuyoshi Araki Shokuji (The Banquet), 1993

Hyper-aesthetic and hyper-realistic images of food. Hyper sould food - as in hyper fashion, as in hyper sex, as in hyper orgasms. A preview to multiple hyper olfactory and hyper gustatory experiences.
/HORST

Tokyo Diaries

A mental travel preparation.




Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 1993

Documenting a world before arrival. The aesthetic pleasures one seeks to find. The consumerist mega-structures one desires to wander about. The conceptual fashion one wants to buy.
/HORST

The Prarf

1. Prada Fall/Winter 2001
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2001
3. Prada Fall/Winter 2001
4. Daniel Riera Fantastic Man, 2014

A mischief comeback, the neckerchief is back - "want you back for good". Hard to pull off, it is rather and most likely to be tied - and not pulled off - around one's neck. Slim necks preferably. Prada, too.
/HORST

The Intertext Of Hedi Slimane II

1. Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2013
2. Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2013
3. Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014

Until now, I wasn't that much aware of the Slimane gender blending. Yes, the womenswear invite showed men in suits (swaying a hat) and the menswear invite featured an illustrated (vaguely feminine) heart, yet, the crossing of sexuality seemed nothing more than a visual/conceptual tease. Androgynity was always on Hedi's Dior Homme agenda. With his offerings for Saint Laurent, it feels more like a campaign for asexuality. In fact, he creates duplicates, an intertext within his own world. That of sequins, bows and leopard print. I am buying it. Lipstick included.
/HORST

Historiographed, Again

1. Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2014
2. Gucci Fall/Winter 1999
3. Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2014
4. Gucci Fall/Winter 1997
5. Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2014
6. Gucci Fall/Winter 1997
7. Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2014
8. Gucci Spring/Summer 1998

Tom Ford just re-did Gucci by Tom Ford (1994-2004). Red crocodile, leopard, lacing, plush fur and shiny leather. Fashion is cyclic - as it should be. And this cycle has proven itself to be around 13 to 14 years.
/HORST