Positive Extremism

1. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2015
2. John Galliano Fall/Winter 1997
3. Collier Schorr Base Portraits/Barracks, 2005

Straight pacifism. The most admirable beings united. Rei, Raf, Collier. Nipster fashion for the pre-digital, post-digital age. Those of us you live analogue digially. In Real Life. In Real Love. On- and offline.
/HORST

Inspired by Alexander Fury

The Intertext Of Hedi Slimane II

1. Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2013
2. Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2013
3. Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014

Until now, I wasn't that much aware of the Slimane gender blending. Yes, the womenswear invite showed men in suits (swaying a hat) and the menswear invite featured an illustrated (vaguely feminine) heart, yet, the crossing of sexuality seemed nothing more than a visual/conceptual tease. Androgynity was always on Hedi's Dior Homme agenda. With his offerings for Saint Laurent, it feels more like a campaign for asexuality. In fact, he creates duplicates, an intertext within his own world. That of sequins, bows and leopard print. I am buying it. Lipstick included.
/HORST

Versus Versus Slimane

1. Versus Spring/Summer 1996
2. Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014
3. Versus Spring/Summer 1996
4. Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014
5. Versus Spring/Summer 1996
6. Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2013

What Gianni Versace's Versus has in common with Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent is a love for youth - a playful youth with attitude: rich, reckless and borderlining towards the tacky. Things that the young want to wear while being criticized for it.
/HORST

Confession, Light-Hearted

Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2013

So here is the problem: Once on the shop floor, we want the clothes, the shoes, the jewellery and accessories. A luxurious wardrobe dedicated to the skinny tuxedo. Accordingly, we can regard the runway presentation as refined element of shock.
/HORST

Boy Interrupted

Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2013

And I will finally tell you: My most favourite Spring/Summer 2013 show was Comme des Garçons. It was whispering escaped psychiatry, thrown over the medical director's, respectively cleaning boy's robe/coat over one's black and white leopard print pyjamas. Insanely perfect, perfectly insane.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking