A Short History Of Patchwork In Popular Culture

1. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2000
2. Robert Rauschenberg Windward, 1963
3. Robert Rauschenberg From The Seat Of Authority, 1979
4. Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2013
5. John Baldessari Hope (Blue) Supported By A Bed Of Oranges (Life): Amid A Context Of Allusions, 1991

The re-appreciation of re-appropriation: patchwork in fashion and art. As delicate layers (Rei and Robert) or harsh mismatching (Junya and John). Trusting in the contextual meaning of found material that is finding itself renewed.
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Wishful Thinking #2

Front Chess Table, 2009

A table for rivalry (as self-described by the creators), this black-and-white checkered object has proven itself a valid display for naked bodies wrapped around - perfectly shown in the photography project Inside The Box by Erwin Olaf and Marcel Wanders.
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Versus Versus Slimane

1. Versus Spring/Summer 1996
2. Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014
3. Versus Spring/Summer 1996
4. Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014
5. Versus Spring/Summer 1996
6. Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2013

What Gianni Versace's Versus has in common with Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent is a love for youth - a playful youth with attitude: rich, reckless and borderlining towards the tacky. Things that the young want to wear while being criticized for it.
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Prince Charming

Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2013

The 'Alice's Adventures in Wonderland' chess check, 'Prinz Eisenherz' hair, a 'Ken Park' cast. Infantile as core value, historic nostalgia as ironic pastiche. This season's Homme Plus is a Boys' Plus coming-of-age toy story.
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"Prada Banality", Post-Painterly Art II

or 'Fashion For Intellectuals' (FFI)



1. Anders Widoff U.T (Grammatik): 14, 1994-95
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2013

The clothes Miuccia Prada presented were nothing but not easy to understand. They were referring to multiple schools of modern art, multiple directions. Her sophisticated school boys, nerds and professors were symbols of an intellectual/artistic elite. And her fashion was tailored for the likes of David Salle, Michael Krebber and Anders Widoff.
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Post Paris XXVIII

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Alexander Fury, discussing:
Céline Fall/Winter 2013

Céline has always been about a reality of dressing. You could call it rational - like that dowdy mid-nineteenth century movement that encouraged women to cast off the shackles of their corsets and don by-and-large shapeless velvet garments that could have been sported by Mrs Arnolfini circa her Van Eyck portrait. Incidentally, she featured in the bumper inspiration book Phoebe Philo placed on every seat to unravel her latest offering. But of course, her garments were neither dowdy, nor shapeless, even when they seemed crafted from chequered laundry bags. That felt like an Arte Povera touch, a reversal of luxury - like Gabrielle Chanel lining her drab woollen coats in sable, the luxury hidden for the wearer. Likewise, those coats that looked like plastic pound-shop schmattes are probably amongst the most expensive of the entire season. And, somehow, along that route from laudromat spin-cycle to Céline catwalk, they have been magically transmogrified into the most desirable. It's a fashion miracle. Except there's nothing inexplicable about it.

/ALEX

Phoebe Philo's maximalist minimalism turns models back into mannequins. Clinging to clutches. Making sure the product is perfectly visible. The message "We are for sale!" is worn on their sleeves. Margiela's merchandise as jewellery comes to mind. The 'cheap' and mundane transformed into a luxury it-item. Infused with a 'slash' of vagina feminism. You need a bag?
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1. Céline Fall/Winter 2013
2. Hyacinthe Rigaud Louis XIV, 1701
3. Rachel Whiteread Embankment, 2005-6
4. Robert Mapplethorpe Patti Smith, 1973
5. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2002
6. Céline Fall/Winter 1975
7. Ida Applebrook Group H #4, 1969
8. Céline Fall/Winter 2013

More about Alexander Fury LOVE Magazine

Granularity V

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012
3. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013
4. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012
5. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013 & Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012

The Raf Sander universe is a hermeneutic one. Ruled by specific genetic conditions that determinate the final outcome, the outer shell. Like mother, like son. And since yesterday, our mother is called Jil Simons.
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See also Granularity III

Boy Interrupted

Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2013

And I will finally tell you: My most favourite Spring/Summer 2013 show was Comme des Garçons. It was whispering escaped psychiatry, thrown over the medical director's, respectively cleaning boy's robe/coat over one's black and white leopard print pyjamas. Insanely perfect, perfectly insane.
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Image credits Catwalking

Granularity III

1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012
2. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2006
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2006, Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012 & Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2006
4. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2006, Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012 & Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2006
5. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2006 & Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012
6. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012 & Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2006

The Raf Sander universe is a hermeneutic one. In Spring/Summer 2012 he refined the clash of disrupted checks and tropical florals. Carefully remaking his first attempt for Jil Sander in 2006. Tonight, he will be presenting his Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Another logical adjustment on the journey from boy to man?
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