Out Of Touch

Si Chan Fall/Winter 2012

What could have sprung from Erwin Wurm's walking sculptures, is a rubber glove inferno wrapped around a man's body. Dangling from the neck, finding especial grip in the male crotch. What makes it charming rather than disturbing is the naïve colour palette.
/HORST

A Short History Of Patchwork In Popular Culture

1. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2000
2. Robert Rauschenberg Windward, 1963
3. Robert Rauschenberg From The Seat Of Authority, 1979
4. Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2013
5. John Baldessari Hope (Blue) Supported By A Bed Of Oranges (Life): Amid A Context Of Allusions, 1991

The re-appreciation of re-appropriation: patchwork in fashion and art. As delicate layers (Rei and Robert) or harsh mismatching (Junya and John). Trusting in the contextual meaning of found material that is finding itself renewed.
/HORST

Post London IV

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Bryan Rapp, discussing:
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2014

When I was a kid, I used to play a lot of sports. I tended goals in both ice hockey and football. The former required wearing a jockstrap. For a short period of time, I tried my luck in the game of handball as well (but not as a goalie, mind you). It was one of my then-best friends, with the most common Swedish surname Andersson, who brought me to my first handball practice. I remember that our coach was a pregnant woman and that our team colours were red, blue and white. I quit the team after only a couple of weeks. Handball was not my cup of tea.

/BRYAN

When -isms collide and the gender revolution neutralises itself, anti-masculinity becomes the mere image of womenswear worn by men. Or men wearing womenswear. Plus. Minus. Zero. Slowly, the J.W.A. concept becomes a papier mâché set, loosely glued together, juncture points still visible. A reflection of one's own deconstruction:
Ad novum mundum creandum, primum delendus est vetus. Scissors, pins, ready.
/HORST








1. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2014
2. Jeff Koons One Ball Total Equilibrium Tank, 1985
3. Joe Lally Pop 421, 2013
4. Wayne's World Game On, 1992
5. J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2013
6. Maurice Scheltens Forms Of Boredom, 1999
7. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2011
8. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2014

All about Bryan Rapp

Post London

A false encyclopaedic guide to the London collections, presenting:
Marques'Almeida Fall/Winter 2013

1. Elad Lassry Woman (Puzzle), 2010
2. Hans Arp Maskenspiel, 1932
3. Anselm Reyle Untitled, 2012

Andy Warhol's Do It Yourself (Landscape) from 1962 has not only perpetuated the 'organic school' of Arp and Aalto, it has influenced generations after and anticipated the idea of post-digital DIYPBNCP ("Do It Yourself Paint By Numbers Camouflage Puzzle") as seen at Marques'Almeida.
/HORST

Garage Martin Margiela

1. Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2010
2. Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2011
3. Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2011

Hardware as neutral (metallic) matter to be evolved into 'whatever' form of man-made design. Therefore, it is best described as 'substance'. By combining and manipulating its elements, the raw becomes 'something' luxurious.
/HORST

Codes Of Construction, Epilogue

Hernández Cornet Spring/Summer 2013

From hardware to hardwear. From hardcore to heartcore. Backstage impressions from the Hernández Cornet Spring/Summer 2013 collection. As always, it's all about the details, the shim and the shimmer.
/HORST

Image credits Erika Helin

German Psycho II, 2012

or 'Your Love Is My Trophy'

















Plastic raincoat Jil Sander
Shirt Raf Simons
Tie Second Hand
Trousers H&M
Scissors HAY

A lovethreat letter and the act of creation. Reaching out to the beautiful, unfulfilled, untouchable. When Salomé carried the head of St. John, history did not know of her successor.
/HORST

The Context Of Use

Artworks Kjell Varvin

The 'oblique' architecture of Claude Parent and the impressions from my last visit to the zoo evoke images of the 'human cage'. Interiors without furniture. Solely equipped with artefacts of forms to be endorsed with new meanings.
/HORST

Post Graduate IV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Luke Stevens B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2012
2. Yves Tanguy The Invisibles, 1951
3. Helmut Lang Make It Hard 2011

An assemblage of dip-dyed, glued-together pieces. Of raw, intuitive gestures, adding layer for layer for layer. Sportswear as a form of extreme DIY. Destruction as creation.
/HORST