Double Feature IV

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Matthew Attard Navarro, discussing:
Dior Spring/Summer 2015

Dior - Madame/Mrs/Ms. Dior all in one. No better time to be in Paris and this season really proves this. The LVMH family finally realised that the buyers of tomorrow must be wowed over today - and this Dior collection is exactly that, a pleasing collection for the previous generation of Dior owners, and a search for the new. After this season closes there'll be no surprises as to why Tait won that designer award. Is it all a bit too much?

/MATTHEW

What starts as blank minimalism with space age references, twists and turns via the baroque (Marie Antoinette robes) towards Tirolean folklore (floral embroidery) and handicraft tradition (knitted heels with woven-in contrast threads). A post-Disney, postmodernist fairytale.
/HORST





1. Dior Spring/Summer 2015
2. Giovanni Michelotti Matra Laser, 1971
3. Clement Chabernaud Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2007
4. Unknown
5. Jeff Koons Bound Of Flowers, 1991
6. Sigourney Weaver Alien, 1979
7. Fantaghirò Still, 1991-1996
8. Dior Spring/Summer 2015

For Jeff, 2013

or 'No de-fence'

Cardigan Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
T-Shirt Raf Simons
Shorts Comme des Garçons Homme Plus

The backstreet fence is where Jeff and Raf meet. Pink Panther is the comic-al character Rei and Jeff both mutually met. My skin is the backdrop for their story - a virtual threesome.
/HORST

Appendix:


1. Jeff Koons Pink Panther, 1988
2. Jeff Koons Fait d'Hiver, 1988

Post London IV

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Bryan Rapp, discussing:
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2014

When I was a kid, I used to play a lot of sports. I tended goals in both ice hockey and football. The former required wearing a jockstrap. For a short period of time, I tried my luck in the game of handball as well (but not as a goalie, mind you). It was one of my then-best friends, with the most common Swedish surname Andersson, who brought me to my first handball practice. I remember that our coach was a pregnant woman and that our team colours were red, blue and white. I quit the team after only a couple of weeks. Handball was not my cup of tea.

/BRYAN

When -isms collide and the gender revolution neutralises itself, anti-masculinity becomes the mere image of womenswear worn by men. Or men wearing womenswear. Plus. Minus. Zero. Slowly, the J.W.A. concept becomes a papier mâché set, loosely glued together, juncture points still visible. A reflection of one's own deconstruction:
Ad novum mundum creandum, primum delendus est vetus. Scissors, pins, ready.
/HORST








1. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2014
2. Jeff Koons One Ball Total Equilibrium Tank, 1985
3. Joe Lally Pop 421, 2013
4. Wayne's World Game On, 1992
5. J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2013
6. Maurice Scheltens Forms Of Boredom, 1999
7. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2011
8. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2014

All about Bryan Rapp

A Short History Of The Egg In Popular Culture

1. Hans Finsler Eggs in mirror II, 1929
2. Jeff Koons Cracked Egg, 1995-1997
3. Man Ray Ostrich Egg, 1944
4. Maison Martin Margiela Door-stopper egg, Line 13
5. Josef Sudek Egg and glass, 1952
6. Marjan Pejoski Björk Swan Dress, 2001

When it comes to evolutionary history, artists have taken unanimous position. The egg was first, everything else just follows. The perfect object to be studied, portrayed and decontextualized. Thus, the egg equals David, the icon of (still) life.
/HORST

Candy Clutch, Readymade or Accessory

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2010

One of the items that sold out within a controversial sellout was the shiny, mirror-surfaced, hyper-exaggerated candy wrap transformed into a clutch or readymade that would make Koons proud. This is how you could and should wear it if you wanted to.
/HORST

A Short History Of The Grid In Popular Culture V

1. Patternity Orange Crossed Wires, 2012
2. Jeff Koons Titi, 2003
3. Aqua Fence, 2012
4. Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2008
5. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011
6. Bacchus In Chains, 2012
7. Jeff Koons Fait d'Hiver, 1988

The chain linked fence: an absolutely unnatural icon of industrialization and the capitalsitic need of marking and protecting property. A thin, fake layer that still reveals everything. It's a total alibi, making sure everyone sees what lies behind.
/HORST

The Nude Portrait III x Portraits Of An Artist IV

category e.1) golden shower

1. Rick Owens Self-portrait, i-D Magazine 2002
2. Jürgen Teller Louis XV, 2005

category e.2) distorted body

3. Francis Bacon Study for self-portrait, 1976

category e.3) frontal poet

4. Don Herron Robert Mapplethorpe, 1978
5. Vinoodh Matadin Hans van Manen, 1986

category e.4) the couple


6. Gilbert & George Naked Suits, 1994
7. Jeff Koons Ponies, 1991

When two portrait series become one. The provocative, self-revealing depiction of nudity. Disarming every critic as there is nothing left to be exposed or taken away, the artist deletes the possibility of any scandal. Possibly, this is his most powerful creation.
/HORST