Now & Then XIV

1. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014 (Willy Vanderperre & Olivier Rizzo)
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2003 (Mario Sorrenti & Panos Yiapanis)

Two power couples of styling and photography in the battle of decades. They fight for the attention of Raf, or RAF. Who will remain the winner? And why are we haunted by the ever-recurring image of rebellion/youth?
/HORST

Steampunk

Willy Vanderperre Faux Semblant, 2010

Organic, mechanic, bionic. Not much has progressed in menswear since future forecasts by H.R. Giger or Tstuomu Nihei. Their depictions unkindly agree that the future will be ugly.
/HORST

The Marc by Miu Miu Jacobs Scandal

1. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014
2. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2012
3. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
4. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2010
5. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
6. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2009
7. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2012
8. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2013

By appointing Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier as the new creative power force behind the diffusion line Marc by Marc, a sleeping 'duo fatale' has been awakened. Shamelessly nicking the success formula of the rival house of Miu Miu, the end result can only be understood as open letter - or practical joke. All we witness is styling one-liners, same-same patterns and a long, repetitive punchline. No one is laughing.
/HORST

Candy Clutch, Readymade or Accessory

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2010

One of the items that sold out within a controversial sellout was the shiny, mirror-surfaced, hyper-exaggerated candy wrap transformed into a clutch or readymade that would make Koons proud. This is how you could and should wear it if you wanted to.
/HORST

Glam Nerd, The

Ben Toms What If We Are, AnOther Man Fall/Winter 2012

There is a certain 70s sensuality that has defined the outcome of the latest issues of AnOther Man and Arena Homme +. I'd love to name this new genre 'Glam Nerd' - essentially characterized as the essence of David Bowie wearing Prada and Gucci.
/HORST

Shape Enhancer

Stefan Zschernitz Masculine Mystery, dansk #28

The recent relaunch of dansk is an aesthetic success story. What has added the final convincing touch is an increase of the male content dosage. We all know what to wear now.
/HORST

Obviously IV

1. Raf Simons x Fred Perry Fall/Winter 2009
2. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012
3. Prada Fall/Winter 2012

Thanks to the uncertain personae of Miuccia Simons, it will be all about the triple collar. Its interpretation varies from jacket on shirt on shirt to jacket on shirt on turtleneck to jacket on jacket on shirt. Continue the sentence.
/HORST