The Marc by Miu Miu Jacobs Scandal

1. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014
2. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2012
3. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
4. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2010
5. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
6. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2009
7. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2012
8. Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 & Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2013

By appointing Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier as the new creative power force behind the diffusion line Marc by Marc, a sleeping 'duo fatale' has been awakened. Shamelessly nicking the success formula of the rival house of Miu Miu, the end result can only be understood as open letter - or practical joke. All we witness is styling one-liners, same-same patterns and a long, repetitive punchline. No one is laughing.
/HORST

Perpetuum Mobile, 2013

or 'Confessions Of A Conceptualist'

Vest Ann Demeulemeester
Tank Rick Owens
Trousers Ann Demeulemeester
Raincoat Jil Sander
Slippers Hernández-Cornet

A fur slipper is a fur slipper is a fur slipper. A post-Lang, post-Einstein perpetual motion. An exercise in discomfort while being comfortable. A scientific model based on friction that creates energy in itself.
/HORST

Reversed Prophecy

1. Yves Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane Spring/Summer 2000
2. Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane Fall/Winter 2002

À propos Lamé: opposed to what was delivered, admittedly, this is what I hoped and longed for. A return to the luxury of camp. Instead we got dusty sincerity.
/HORST

Now & Then V

1. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall/Winter 2013
2. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2007

Naïvety comes in recurrent shape of comic(al) hats. And it has taken men a few years to be accepted within the realms of infantility, ruled by those ideas that Rei Kawakubo is introducing in successive doses.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com, Catwalking

Helmut Dialogues VI

1. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2004
2. Dior Spring/Summer 2013

When he presented his first ready-to-wear collection for Dior, Raf Simons wore a denim jacket with three painted stripes from Helmut Lang, released in 1995. The year when Raf Simons started his own menswear label.
/HORST

Saint

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2007

Mentally preparing for the sacred season. Dressing adequately. The body as decoration. Wrapping oneself in golden iridescent shine. Courtesy of the holy spirit of Rei Kawakubo.
/HORST