The Intertext Of Hedi Slimane

1. Raymond Pettibon Invite, Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2014
2. Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2014
3. John Baldessari Invite, Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2014
4. Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2014

The artists Slimane chooses and the symbols their invitation artworks depict imply a crossing of meaning. Comic-like figures with disturbing, poetic and ambiguous undertone? The anti-authoritarian spirit of youth? Pettibon! Menswear! The appropriation of the found image as art practice? Endless repetition with subtle changes? Baldessari! Womenswear! 9 classic jackets over sparkly dresses...
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Hip Teens Over 30

Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2014

Have we yet discussed the best collection for 2014? Junya Watanabe was quite close - with shredded hippie anti-structures. And now, after a few weeks of thinking, I came to the conclusion that it is Yohji's time. Fluoroscent neon bigotry, disgusting, hip and trendy, self-questioning, fantastic.
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A Short History Of The Apron In Popular Culture

1. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2013
2. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2004
3. Joseph Beuys Backrest For A Fine-Limbed Person, 1972

While icon of domestic (supression) and household chores of 1950s Germania/Americana, the apron bares both - a sensitive and brutal subtext, once put into male context. The butcher, the craftsman, the sculptor. Put shortly, the misunderstood artist on the threshold from genius to madness.
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Prince Charming

Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2013

The 'Alice's Adventures in Wonderland' chess check, 'Prinz Eisenherz' hair, a 'Ken Park' cast. Infantile as core value, historic nostalgia as ironic pastiche. This season's Homme Plus is a Boys' Plus coming-of-age toy story.
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A Short History Of The Comic Strip In Popular Culture VIII

1. Walter van Beirendonck Spring/Summer 2012
2. Erwin Wurm Fat Car, 2001

The moving comic sculpture. Walter van Beirendonck and Erwin Wurm almost made me cry. Together, they presented walking absurdity during the Spring/Summer 2012 menswear finale. A collection that could easily be entitled 'POW, BOOM, BANG'. Worth shedding a happy tear.
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A Short History Of The Comic Strip In Popular Culture VII

1. Bertrand Lavier Walt Disney Productions, 1947-1995
2. T. Kelly Mason Lifestyle (Red Balloon), 2013
3. Erwin Wurm The Artist Who Swallowed the World, 2006 & Untitled, 2008
4. Thomas Scheibitz Captain Amely, 2007 & Sumpfblüte, 2008

The comic/al in scultpure. If taken and misused as a literal idea, recreating a Disney scenery in 'real' life (Bertrand Lavier) or using comic sculpture as static performance of an ironic story (Erwin Wurm) - enriched with the seductive quality of pop, the materialized comic strip slowly turns into 'strip-tease'.
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A Short History Of The Comic Strip In Popular Culture V

1. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2003
2. Dirk Bikkembergs Fall/Winter 2003
3. Felix, the Cat 1919
4. Popeye, the Sailor 1919
5. Moschino Cheap & Chic, 1995
6. Givenchy Fall/Winter 2013
7. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2005

The use of comic characters in fashion. Felix, the Cat appears at Helmut Lang and Dirk Bikkembergs. Olivia (from Popeye, the Sailor) becomes the alter ego for Moschino. Bambi is cut and pasted into Givenchy while Pink Panther functions as declared muse for Rei Kawakubo. What does it tell us? It tells stories without telling stories. It's a pastiche, a placeholder. a licence deal. An epic history in thousand chapters with the ultimate cliffhanger: hanger appeal.
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A Short History Of The Comic Strip In Popular Culture IV

1. Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2009
2. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 1987
3. Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2004
4. Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2002
5. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2007

The Yohji Yamamoto appreciation edition. Throughout the years, comic derivates re-appear within the menswear collections. Ranging from stylized hand silhouettes to Geisha portraits and pixelized computer characters. From poetic to rather ridiculous, they reflect a constant 'twinkle in the eye' as core of an aesthetic universe.
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