Fashion Charts II

1. Julien David Fall/Winter 2014

2. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall/Winter 2014

3. John Lawrence Sullivan Fall/Winter 2014

Longing for dysfunctional tailoring, from Art to Deco. A psychological study of misplaced pockets (Julian), doubled lapel (Rei) and origami paneling (John). A physical readymade of the newly discovered, already established and ever ambitious. My top three.
/HORST

Hip Teens Over 30

Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2014

Have we yet discussed the best collection for 2014? Junya Watanabe was quite close - with shredded hippie anti-structures. And now, after a few weeks of thinking, I came to the conclusion that it is Yohji's time. Fluoroscent neon bigotry, disgusting, hip and trendy, self-questioning, fantastic.
/HORST

Empty Pockets

1. Fendi Fall/Winter 2013
2. Prada Spring/Summer 1999
3. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2004

The pocket as exaggaretd means of space and transport. Enough room for the globalized psyche of a world traveller. Multi-minded, try-sexual, jet-sad. Unable to keep anything and take everything with himself.
/HORST

Fall/Women 2013

J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2013

Fashion must be disturbing, otherwise it's just clothes. Those who dare and let us feel uncomfortable will succeed, and sell. A frill dress will inspire to buy a solid T-shirt. Consumerism does not kill creativity. Congrats to J.W. Anderson and Martine Rose who did not copy anyone (except Balenciaga) but re-interpret themselves.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com