Archivio, An

Stone Island Archivio '982-'012

Scientific research has shown that performance clothes influence the wearer's performance. Capes lend the ability to fly while metal foil surfaces teleport to outer space.
/HORST

Empty Pockets

1. Fendi Fall/Winter 2013
2. Prada Spring/Summer 1999
3. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2004

The pocket as exaggaretd means of space and transport. Enough room for the globalized psyche of a world traveller. Multi-minded, try-sexual, jet-sad. Unable to keep anything and take everything with himself.
/HORST

The Horst Interview: Komakino

Komakino Fall/Winter 2013

A lyric investigation on the London-based label that places traces of typography to convey an aesthetic universe based on music, theatre and, most importantly, anonymity. A short, restricted conversation.



Spring/Summer 2013

Who is Komakino?
Federico Capalbo and Jin Kim. We have recurring collaborators that are definitely part of the brand.

What does the name stand for? An homage to the homonymous single by Joy Division?
Yes, music has always been a constant in our lives.

Words are a recurrent theme throughout your collections, appearing as patches on clothes, as fragments of a secret message. Are you storytellers?
We have always worked on building a system of codes. Words, graphics, silhouettes are tools that we use to define a spirit. Fashion can be politically or socially addressed, but what we do has more to do with identity, an identity that is connected to subculture, defined by outsiders.



Spring/Summer 2012

Your work is multi-dimensional, conceptually as well as visually. Can you describe your approach?
I didn't really consider a set starting point with the first three or four seasons with Komakino. Later I started to take a clear direction in form of the music I was listening to, the universe that I related to, which could span from cinema to a gig. This was when our aesthetic became more defined. I tried to translate this through the alphabet of shapes, and how this formed through certain codes of fashions. We want to be able to succeed the moment you take a single piece from the collection out of its context and still it can be recognised and related to the brand. At the end of the day we are making clothes, and clothes are single garments.

Which further projects are you working on currently?
A fanzine project we would like to present in collaboration with artist Matteo Giordano – more a collection of visuals actually, which will hopefully develop into a film and an installation.


Spring/Summer 2013

Which item is dearest to your heart, which garment could stand as symbol for your body of work?
The MA-1.


Societas Raffaello Sanzio Tragedia Endogonidia, 2004

Which piece of art has moved you recently?
I have recently purchased the box set of 'Tragedia Endogonidia' by Societas Raffaello Sanzio. I had the chance to attend to a few performances by Romeo Catellucci in the past, I find his work to be terribly exciting.

A recent record you listened to?
Raime - Quarter Turns Over A Living Line

Thank you, Federico.
/HORST

MA-1 Parachute, 2013

or 'Über den Wolken muss die Freiheit wohl grenzenlos sein'

Bomber jacket Komakino
Jumpsuit Second Hand
Turtleneck top Prada

Performing the sky-high penance in jumpsuit and bomber jacket. Endorsed with detachable straps, inscribed with the statement of belief of a pervert priest: 'Partial Truth' and 'Confess'.
/HORST

Zhivago, 2012

or 'Don't Push Me In The Bushes'

T-shirt Acne
Jeans H&M
Shoes Ann Demeleulemeester
Necklace Maison Martin Margiela
Pendants Kenzo

A whitewashed boy scout fantasy. Properly equipped for any (antiseptic) outdoor performance: water-repellent T-shirt, whistle, rope, saw, snap hook, multi-strapped boots. Minus the latex gloves.
/HORST

International Herald Tribune

1. Damir Doma Spring/Summer 2013
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012

The IHT is the self-proclaimed global edition of the New York Times. In the semantic context of 'global', the use of an IHT newspaper functions as a symbol for survival and therefore absolute accessory for human mankind threatened by the apocalypse of global crimes.
/HORST

Battle Royale

Damir Doma Spring/Summer 2013

A collection that told a story in chapters. A tough travel in multi-function leather, the curious arrival in faded beach pastels and a happy luxurious ending in colourfully striped silk pyjamas. Yet I am still wondering why no one is taking off their clothes?
/HORST