Denudity

Hood By Air Fall/Winter 2014

Remove the three letters, ignore the branding and the sportswear stripes. Take the pieces that no one dares to buy. Remove your clothes. Let the thoughts behind those garments uncover you.
/HORST

Fashion Charts XI

1. Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2015

2. Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2015

3. Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2015

Longing for strap-ons. Who would've ever thought that those three will be partners in harness crime. Alien netwear (Rick) vs. ballet fencing (Dries) vs. amputee tailoring (Yohji). Another top three.
/HORST

Fashion Charts III

1. Prada Fall/Winter 2014

2. Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2014

3. Walter van Beirendonck Fall/Winter 2014

Longing for torso bondage, from Eskimo to psycho. Cozy in fur (Miuccia), recycled in nylon (Martin) and strapped in leather (Walter). An iteration by the queen of fashion, a disappeared icon and resurrected teddy bear. My top three.
/HORST

Real Fantasy, 2013

or 'Piece Of Me'

Top Prada
Trousers Acne

The best collection ever created. Prada Fall/Winter 2008. A historical moment, impossible to be restaged or relived. A real fantasy and wet dream come true. Men in ruffled skirts, sparkly cummerbunds and extravagant bibs. A radical truth.
/HORST

Raspberry Pink, 2013

or 'I Don't Want No Retro Spective'

















Top Raf Simons
Jacket Josef Lazo
Trousers Raf Simons
Backpack Raf Simons

I am not interested in the past, I am interested in the future. I prefer repetition over copy and paste. Quoting myself, adding a new colour, building an archive, paying tribute to someone else.
/HORST

MA-1 Parachute, 2013

or 'Über den Wolken muss die Freiheit wohl grenzenlos sein'

Bomber jacket Komakino
Jumpsuit Second Hand
Turtleneck top Prada

Performing the sky-high penance in jumpsuit and bomber jacket. Endorsed with detachable straps, inscribed with the statement of belief of a pervert priest: 'Partial Truth' and 'Confess'.
/HORST

The Dalton Simons Scandal, The Roach Kawakubo Scandal, And Another Scandal

0. Neo Rauch Wahl, 1998










1. Lee Roach Fall/Winter 2013 & Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2001
2. Lee Roach Fall/Winter 2013 & Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 1998
3. Lee Roach Fall/Winter 2013 & Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2010
4. Lou Dalton Fall/Winter 2013 & Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2010
5. Lou Dalton Fall/Winter 2013 & Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2005
6. Lou Dalton Fall/Winter 2013 & Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2012

I am angry. Although we all like the end product, I cannot hold back a certain disbelief in our time's aesthetic capabilities and originality. A generation that has lost itself in the search for creation.

We are not witnessing fashion collections but a remix of previous, now iconic ideas. London Collections: Men has proven that education through design has been replaced by simulation through sampling.

A decade without identity has begun and while 'clothes' cannot be re-invented as such, they should at least reflect a singular thought of its maker. Looking at fashion masters of former days is a necessity, but being 'inspired' should have a deeper meaning.

Artists like Man Ray, Keith Sonnier and Neo Rauch have proven that questioning the own standards and constantly looking for new forms of creativity results in unquestionably relevant cultural 'products'.

A strenuous effort that no one is willing to undertake anymore.
/HORST

See also The Farhi Sander Scandal or The Burberry Prada Scandal