Double Feature V

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Iris & Daniel, discussing:
Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

Military fatigues infected by flower power, or the other way around. Before, they got married. Soldier and bride. Then they clashed. War and resistance. Then they dismantled. Grunge. Now they’re melted together, on the same body.

Everything was not really a skirt, or a shirt, or a dress, or a jacket. Lace annoying the shoulders and hems of an army jacket. Cargo pockets interrupting flounce. Plisé exploding from underneath aprons. Flat olive drab fronts ballooned in the back like a skydiving motorcyclist. We want to pick this apart and wear it with jeans. Maybe bell bottoms. Not nostalgically though, this collection wouldn’t let you be anywhere but now.

/IRIS&DANIEL

For some reason, those clothes reminded me of Rosemarie Trockel. Maybe just for the sound of the name. But also because of the sensuality for materials, her ceremaic and textile works. And then there was also some Kafka maybe. Because of the fur. Maybe.
/HORST





1. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015
2. Flower Power, 1967
3. Parachuting Dog, WWII
4. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2003
5. Nobuyoshi Araki Erotos, 1993
6. Prada Fall/Winter 2007
7. Rosemarie Trockel A Cosmos, 2013
8. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

The Cave, 2014

or 'This Was The Birth Of The Modern World'

 

 

Collar piece Marques'Almeida
Jeans The Local Firm

When Jürgen Teller took those backstage pictures. And when Corinne Day shot that image of Kate. This prehistorical age between 1993 and 1997. It was forever declared that 'fashion is about attitude, not hemlines'.
/HORST

Prada Fantasies, Epilogue

1. Prada Spring/Summer 2008
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2014

Of course, there are also Prada womenswear collections that I missed. But yet, they do not remain out of reach of our collective heart forever. They return, they come back. Great Prada collections.
/HORST

Fashion Charts III

1. Prada Fall/Winter 2014

2. Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2014

3. Walter van Beirendonck Fall/Winter 2014

Longing for torso bondage, from Eskimo to psycho. Cozy in fur (Miuccia), recycled in nylon (Martin) and strapped in leather (Walter). An iteration by the queen of fashion, a disappeared icon and resurrected teddy bear. My top three.
/HORST

Fashion Charts

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2014

2. Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2014

3. Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2014

Longing for patchwork, from punk to Pitchfork. A common ground within the expected (Junya), unexpected (Dries) and anticipated (Raf). A secret pact between the artistic, commercial and hyped. My top three.
/HORST

Anew, A New Male

1. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2014
2. Meadham Kirchhoff Spring/Summer 2014
3. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2014
4. Martine Rose Fall/Winter 2013
5. Dimitri Arvanitis Graduate Collection 2013

I'd like to introduce 'Anew' as a new term for a new movement, a new school. After 'Antwerp 6' we have 'Anew 4+'. Constituting itself of Martine Rose, Meadham Kirchhoff, Dimitri Arvanitis and J.W. Anderson. Under kind custody of über-mother Rei Kawakubo, they are establishing what has been introduced as 'gender-bending', the 'metrosexual' or 'trans' and 'fear-male'.

Martine Rose delivers the core theme: 'Expect Perfection'. With lurex tops, cropped denim jackets and fabric-floating skrousers that recall Brenda Walsh, stilt and street walkers. Anderson, for his part, proposes blousy neckholder tops in decorative scarf/curtain prints - the after-effect of architectural experimentation. Kitchen, apron and housewife kitsch, rubber coats and sweat-wet hairdos are the identifying marks of Meadham Kirchhoff's fetishized male housewife. While Dimitri Arvanitis tarts up a clique of pony riding society gayls for their highly anticipated night out of the closet. So what and who is the Anew Male? A female pastiche? A reworked cliché? We see party girls, nurses, millionaire's devotees, call girls and ladyboys - starring in The Real Husbands of London, Paris and Antwerp. My question to you is: Are you one of them?
/HORST

Sherman Questions XIII

1. Cindy Sherman Untitled #473, 2008
2. Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2013

Isn't it ironic how both images as aspirations of 'luxury' result in something chintzy? Cindy and Marc present an exercise in fake fur and cheap perfume. Layering kitsch until it becomes rich.
/HORST

View all parts of Sherman Questions

Perpetuum Mobile, 2013

or 'Confessions Of A Conceptualist'

Vest Ann Demeulemeester
Tank Rick Owens
Trousers Ann Demeulemeester
Raincoat Jil Sander
Slippers Hernández-Cornet

A fur slipper is a fur slipper is a fur slipper. A post-Lang, post-Einstein perpetual motion. An exercise in discomfort while being comfortable. A scientific model based on friction that creates energy in itself.
/HORST