The Cave, 2014

or 'This Was The Birth Of The Modern World'

 

 

Collar piece Marques'Almeida
Jeans The Local Firm

When Jürgen Teller took those backstage pictures. And when Corinne Day shot that image of Kate. This prehistorical age between 1993 and 1997. It was forever declared that 'fashion is about attitude, not hemlines'.
/HORST

AFEW, A New Female

1. Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2014
2. Meadham Kirchhoff Spring/Summer 2014
3. Marques'Almeida Spring/Summer 2014

The female equivalent to ANEW, A New Male, these three designers are currently defining what womanhood means today. On the forefront: Simone Rocha. She gives us laminated prostitute nuns, shredded millionaire's daughters and confused catholic punk school girls. The anti-image of what women should be. And the ideal image of what women should be.

What Rocha shares with Meadham Kirchhoff is a tendency towards romantic codes: lace dresses, collared blouses, negligee tops. Yet, these codes are broken, smashed into pieces, destroyed and covered by snakeskin and PVC. Or ripped apart. Skirts have holes, tops are gliding down the shoulders. Yet, these dysfunctional conflicts are decorated and embellished. With pearls, with trims, with gold lamé.

The 'decoration of destruction' is also eminent in the designs of Marques'Almeida. The masters of frayed dyed denim and imperfect shreds of finest fabric. Together, these three designers create an eclectic image of women. Outgrown girls who still want to have fun. Women who do not accept grown-up womanhood. Who wants to live forever? They surely do.
/HORST

Post London

A false encyclopaedic guide to the London collections, presenting:
Marques'Almeida Fall/Winter 2013

1. Elad Lassry Woman (Puzzle), 2010
2. Hans Arp Maskenspiel, 1932
3. Anselm Reyle Untitled, 2012

Andy Warhol's Do It Yourself (Landscape) from 1962 has not only perpetuated the 'organic school' of Arp and Aalto, it has influenced generations after and anticipated the idea of post-digital DIYPBNCP ("Do It Yourself Paint By Numbers Camouflage Puzzle") as seen at Marques'Almeida.
/HORST