AFEW, A New Female

1. Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2014
2. Meadham Kirchhoff Spring/Summer 2014
3. Marques'Almeida Spring/Summer 2014

The female equivalent to ANEW, A New Male, these three designers are currently defining what womanhood means today. On the forefront: Simone Rocha. She gives us laminated prostitute nuns, shredded millionaire's daughters and confused catholic punk school girls. The anti-image of what women should be. And the ideal image of what women should be.

What Rocha shares with Meadham Kirchhoff is a tendency towards romantic codes: lace dresses, collared blouses, negligee tops. Yet, these codes are broken, smashed into pieces, destroyed and covered by snakeskin and PVC. Or ripped apart. Skirts have holes, tops are gliding down the shoulders. Yet, these dysfunctional conflicts are decorated and embellished. With pearls, with trims, with gold lamé.

The 'decoration of destruction' is also eminent in the designs of Marques'Almeida. The masters of frayed dyed denim and imperfect shreds of finest fabric. Together, these three designers create an eclectic image of women. Outgrown girls who still want to have fun. Women who do not accept grown-up womanhood. Who wants to live forever? They surely do.
/HORST

Trend X-Plorer IV

Revealing trends that cannot and will not be picked up but should be nonetheless.
Part 4: The Melting Mesh

1. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2014
2. Kenzo Spring/Summer 2014
3. Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2014

The grid (as we know it) is dissolving. The internet turned out to be less than a lie. A virtual reality turned reality. Thus, the poles and meshes are melting. And our clothes are caught between op-art and psychedelia - updated and synchronised with our new state of mind.
/HORST

Stitch & Repair: Frankenstein

1. Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2013
2. Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2013
3. Givenchy Fall/Winter 2013

Undead, broken, reassembled. The open-heart experiments of Ownes, Tisci and Kane. A living study in 'plastic' surgery, all connected by one thick thread. Also known as: Anti-Couture.
/HORST

Fleur-De-Lace, 2012

or 'Thank god I'm normal'

Shirt Comme des Garçons

Flowers to Rei Vriens. And yet another Parisian look. Hiding behind, showing off. Another chapter of the multitude of sermons of Horst, your sacred dearest, a sinful priest.
/HORST

interlude

What I am wearing today. Kenzo was an army of pattern clash lovers, Maison Martin Margiela quite crème brûlée and Bernhard Willhelm a comment to Parisian homeless malheur.
/HORST