Showing posts with label bandeau. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bandeau. Show all posts

Saturday

A Short History Of The Bandeau Top In Popular Culture II











1. Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 1998
2. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2010, David Elfin Spring/Summer 2010, Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2009
3. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2010
4. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2014
5. Julius Spring/Summer 2012

The manly adaption is owned by Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and Raf Simons. Visually cutting away shoulder and arms from the rest of the body, the foremost muscular parts are put on display. A study of the fragmented male.
/HORST

Monday

Stepsisters: Jil and Miuccia



1. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2014
2. Prada Spring/Summer 2014

Two women, two collections, two extremes. While Sander and Prada pursue distinctly different paths, they synchronously define fashion's pecking order. Together, they reassured one parallel rule of feminity: women wear bras. As bandeau version or trompe l'œil bustier insert.
/HORST

Thursday

AFEW, A New Female














1. Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2014
2. Meadham Kirchhoff Spring/Summer 2014
3. Marques'Almeida Spring/Summer 2014

The female equivalent to ANEW, A New Male, these three designers are currently defining what womanhood means today. On the forefront: Simone Rocha. She gives us laminated prostitute nuns, shredded millionaire's daughters and confused catholic punk school girls. The anti-image of what women should be. And the ideal image of what women should be.

What Rocha shares with Meadham Kirchhoff is a tendency towards romantic codes: lace dresses, collared blouses, negligee tops. Yet, these codes are broken, smashed into pieces, destroyed and covered by snakeskin and PVC. Or ripped apart. Skirts have holes, tops are gliding down the shoulders. Yet, these dysfunctional conflicts are decorated and embellished. With pearls, with trims, with gold lamé.

The 'decoration of destruction' is also eminent in the designs of Marques'Almeida. The masters of frayed dyed denim and imperfect shreds of finest fabric. Together, these three designers create an eclectic image of women. Outgrown girls who still want to have fun. Women who do not accept grown-up womanhood. Who wants to live forever? They surely do.
/HORST

Tuesday

Helmut Dialogues II



1. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 1997
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2009

If Raf Simons' stepmother is Jil Sander, his anticipated father would be Helmut Lang. A figure that punished him/us with distance and retreat. Thus, he is left with an Oedipus complex that demands psycho therapy and a few collections more.
/HORST

Thursday

Jut Prance





Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2013

Ghesquière provides another lesson in fashion design. With ruffles that pay homage to the Spanish heritage of Flamenco, constructed so perfectly. Paired with strict suits and cropped bandeau tops, the silhouette ascends from romance towards hyper-minimalsm.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking
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