Voice Files

Instant one-sentence-interviews recording the commentary of people that matter.


Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2014

"Love the black skirts and long double-breasted coats. Clothes suitable for formal funereal fetes or cold-night dark back alley trysts."

/BRUCE LABRUCE, film-maker

"The stiff, square shoulders are the default here so the militant exits of five or so tailored jackets serve as perfect backdrop for the sporadic appearance of rounded shoulders on cozy cardigans, turtlenecks, and sweaters. 2014 is about hugging yourself. Even the menacing leather coat is lined with plush shearling. Little goth boy has a sweet side, just check his pink plaid."
/IRIS & DANIEL, fashion editors We Have No Style

"I found McQueen to be refreshingly dark."

/MATTHEW ATTARD NAVARRO, founder Platinum Love Magazine

"Stop, isn't that Oliver Bernard? What the fuck. He's the type that would get into drunken fistfights over le mot juste, but at least he'd recite Apollinaire to you in bed after."
/RUDY KATOCH, writer via twitter

"Bleak House. Less posh & polite than McQueen has been for a while. It reminds me of their pre-2000, pre-Gucci menswear; a bit messier, and a bit rawer. McComme?"

/JOHN-MICHAEL O'SULLIVAN, writer 1972projects

"Something has happened and something is happening. Bacon, Freud, McQueen? Intellectual, tailored goth transformations with a subliminal message: teenage angst is back in stock and it comes with a hand-written price tag."
/HORST

A Short History Of The Bandeau Top In Popular Culture II

1. Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 1998
2. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2010, David Elfin Spring/Summer 2010, Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2009
3. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2010
4. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2014
5. Julius Spring/Summer 2012

The manly adaption is owned by Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and Raf Simons. Visually cutting away shoulder and arms from the rest of the body, the foremost muscular parts are put on display. A study of the fragmented male.
/HORST

Trend X-Plorer IV

Revealing trends that cannot and will not be picked up but should be nonetheless.
Part 4: The Melting Mesh

1. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2014
2. Kenzo Spring/Summer 2014
3. Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2014

The grid (as we know it) is dissolving. The internet turned out to be less than a lie. A virtual reality turned reality. Thus, the poles and meshes are melting. And our clothes are caught between op-art and psychedelia - updated and synchronised with our new state of mind.
/HORST

Process Method

1. Olivier Theyskens Spring/Summer 1999
2. Conquistador Fall/Winter 2011
3. Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2006

Almost like a linguistic experiment, the construction details build up a triad: brackets, bracket lacing, laced fringe. Each idea leading to the other. Within the flux continuum of fashion.
/HORST

Till The World Ends

1. Gosha Rubchinskiy Fall/Winter 2012
2. Matt LeBlanc
3. Mariano Vivanco Dennis Manzoni in Alexander McQueen

Things and images I always wanted to share with you. Maybe it is time to look for new icons. Physically and graphically. Gosha Rubchinskiy could be the physical, faux tattoo the graphical one.
/HORST

Image credits Dazed Digital, Unknown