Double Feature IV

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Matthew Attard Navarro, discussing:
Dior Spring/Summer 2015

Dior - Madame/Mrs/Ms. Dior all in one. No better time to be in Paris and this season really proves this. The LVMH family finally realised that the buyers of tomorrow must be wowed over today - and this Dior collection is exactly that, a pleasing collection for the previous generation of Dior owners, and a search for the new. After this season closes there'll be no surprises as to why Tait won that designer award. Is it all a bit too much?

/MATTHEW

What starts as blank minimalism with space age references, twists and turns via the baroque (Marie Antoinette robes) towards Tirolean folklore (floral embroidery) and handicraft tradition (knitted heels with woven-in contrast threads). A post-Disney, postmodernist fairytale.
/HORST





1. Dior Spring/Summer 2015
2. Giovanni Michelotti Matra Laser, 1971
3. Clement Chabernaud Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2007
4. Unknown
5. Jeff Koons Bound Of Flowers, 1991
6. Sigourney Weaver Alien, 1979
7. Fantaghirò Still, 1991-1996
8. Dior Spring/Summer 2015

Double Feature

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Ana Hernández Cornet, discussing:
Vetements Spring/Summer 2015

An off-key play with school of Margiela proportions that feels innocent and pristine, yet awkwardly sexy. A lurking feeling of something violent about to happen. Yet a warm and fuzzy feeling, like being naked under a pink fur coat.

/ANA

Conservatism and boredom, broken with elements of 'off'. As if Martin Margiela was still 'alive' or as if his twin brother built a parallel world. The team at Maison Martin Margiela does a great job to maintain and continue the legacy of its founder. Vetements, the anonymous collective formed around a former Margiela protégé, re-builts this legacy. Something is happening.
/HORST





1. Vetements Spring/Summer 2015
2. Unknown (Maison Martin Margiela scarification)
3. Jamie Hawkesworth South Shields, 2012
4. Luke Gilford Maison Martin Margiela, 2011
5. Yrjö Edelmann Untitled, 1985
6. Thomas Ruff Portraits, 1984-1985
7. William Selden Masters Of Invention (Dazed & Confused), 2011
8. Vetements Spring/Summer 2015

Voice Files

Instant one-sentence-interviews recording the commentary of people that matter.


Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2014

"Love the black skirts and long double-breasted coats. Clothes suitable for formal funereal fetes or cold-night dark back alley trysts."

/BRUCE LABRUCE, film-maker

"The stiff, square shoulders are the default here so the militant exits of five or so tailored jackets serve as perfect backdrop for the sporadic appearance of rounded shoulders on cozy cardigans, turtlenecks, and sweaters. 2014 is about hugging yourself. Even the menacing leather coat is lined with plush shearling. Little goth boy has a sweet side, just check his pink plaid."
/IRIS & DANIEL, fashion editors We Have No Style

"I found McQueen to be refreshingly dark."

/MATTHEW ATTARD NAVARRO, founder Platinum Love Magazine

"Stop, isn't that Oliver Bernard? What the fuck. He's the type that would get into drunken fistfights over le mot juste, but at least he'd recite Apollinaire to you in bed after."
/RUDY KATOCH, writer via twitter

"Bleak House. Less posh & polite than McQueen has been for a while. It reminds me of their pre-2000, pre-Gucci menswear; a bit messier, and a bit rawer. McComme?"

/JOHN-MICHAEL O'SULLIVAN, writer 1972projects

"Something has happened and something is happening. Bacon, Freud, McQueen? Intellectual, tailored goth transformations with a subliminal message: teenage angst is back in stock and it comes with a hand-written price tag."
/HORST

Artificially Flavored, Primrose Path

Dior Spring/Summer 2014

After his ingenious investigation on the psychological work of Warhol and Schiaparelli, Raf Simons is returning to his concept of 'Dior for Raf Simons'. We are confronted with 'boy scout' girls, a motif known from his biography. We are confronted with slashed typography, a motif known from his earliest and latest menswear collections. We are confronted with stripes, a motif known from his work for Jil Sander. In fact, we are confronted with beauty, a motif known from Raf Simons.
/HORST

Appendix:



1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2000
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011