Fashion Charts VIII

1. J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2015

2. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2015

3. Topman Design Spring/Summer 2015

Longing for retro stripes. The ones we wore twenty years ago and were happy to get rid of when we moved away from home. Thrown over like a blanket from grandmother (Jonathan), sporty as in Sporty Spice (Christopher) and stripper-stripy as in 1970s porn (Gordon). Another top three.
/HORST

Image credits Vogue

Granularity VIII

1. Dior Fall/Winter 2014
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014
3. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014
4. Dior Fall/Winter 2014
5. Dior Fall/Winter 2014
6. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014
7. Dior Fall/Winter 2014
8. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014

The Raf Sandior universe is a hermeneutic one. And it is about shoes. Fast paced models in pop coloured running pumps. Their stumbling stride only buffered by block striped guard rails. Style first, safety second.
/HORST

Rug-Bi-Sexual

Jessica Mort Central Saint Martins Fall/Winter 2014

Taking a predetermined masculine idea and applying techniques that are traditonally perceived feminine (weaving, knitting, fraying), the polo shirt cliché is dissolving into gradient fringe dresses.
/HORST

Paths Towards Modernity

A fictive documentary in art and fashion.





















1. Ridley Howard Blues And Pink, 2012
2. Dior Spring/Summer 2013
3. Ridley Howard Bedroom #2, Morning, 2011
4. Dior Spring/Summer 2013
5. Dior Fall/Winter 2013
6. Ridley Howard Lumi's Tattoo, 2007
7. Dior Spring/Summer 2013
8. Ridley Howard Holly, Rose Dress, 2011
9. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
10. Ridley Howard Leaves, 2009
11. Dior Spring/Summer 2014
12. Ridley Howard Orange #1, 2005
13. Willy Vanderperre Dior campaign, 2013
14. Ridley Howard Blue Necklace, 2013
15. Ridley Howard Legs, Yellow And Red, 2013
16. Dior Spring/Summer 2013
17. Ridley Howard Lying Down, 2005
18. Raf Simons Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012

Raf Simons' Dior woman does not live in a crystal castle but in the beautiful, colourful paintings of Ridley Howard, which reminds us of Alex Katz and David Hockney who also love to stage this contemporary, elitist, consumerist life of pale blue pools and crushed rose petal walls.
/HORST

Artificially Flavored, Primrose Path

Dior Spring/Summer 2014

After his ingenious investigation on the psychological work of Warhol and Schiaparelli, Raf Simons is returning to his concept of 'Dior for Raf Simons'. We are confronted with 'boy scout' girls, a motif known from his biography. We are confronted with slashed typography, a motif known from his earliest and latest menswear collections. We are confronted with stripes, a motif known from his work for Jil Sander. In fact, we are confronted with beauty, a motif known from Raf Simons.
/HORST

Appendix:



1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2000
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011

A Short History Of Stripes In Popular Culture VIII

1. Todd Chilton Backslash, 2010
2. Todd Chilton Wiggle, 2010
3. Todd Chilton Untitled (Black White Over Under), 2008
4. Acne Spring/Summer 2013

The stripe as double triptych. And clothes as op-art. Have you given in to its principles, yet? Have you found the stripe that suits you best? Irregular, curved or narrow? Which type are you? This is a psycho test.
/HORST

Now & Then VII

1. Acne Spring/Summer 2013
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012

There is a close connection/appreciation between Acne Studios and Raf 'Sandior' Simons. In this case, the almost unnoticed 'look 24' from 2012 delivers the main theme for 2013: block striped pyjamas. We might sleep, but our vision does never escape.
/HORST

Twombly Dialogues II

1. Cy Twombly Untitled, 1959
2. Rick Owens Kacper Kasprzyk for Dapper Dan, Fall/Winter 2010

Known for a parallel block stripe incorporated in each garment, Rick Owens' knitwear celebrates the fine delicacy of surface. Using repetetive structures as his geometric signature, replacing branding, tags and visible labels in a Margiela-ist manner.
/HORST

A Short History Of Stripes In Popular Culture VII

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2010
2. Yves Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane Fall/Winter 1999
3. Dior Fall/Winter 2013
4. Vincent Como Objects of Unknown Power and/or Origin, 2001
5. J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2013
6. Céline Fall/Winter 2013
7. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013

The interrupted block stripe. When an endless line is disconnected and cut into a box, Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane become much closer than expected. A 'band' that connects them all, including Jil 'Simons' Sander, J.W. 'Madame' Anderson and Phoebe 'Lang' Philo.
/HORST