Harlekin, 2014

or 'Heidemarie Jiline Tought Me Drama'

Top Jil Sander

A classic rule of (tragic) comedy: Repeat something three times. And then, change it. A classic rule of (poetic) drama: Let there be no happy end. As a result: We laugh tears, and cry tears.
/HORST

Triadism

1. Michaël Borremans Hornet, 2008
2. Michaël Borremans The Apron, 2009
3. Michaël Borremans Lakei, 2010
4. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2014
5. Theyskens' Theory Spring/Summer 2014
6. Michaël Borremans A2, 2004
7. Michaël Borremans Red Hand, Green Hand, 2010
8. Michaël Borremans The Mirror, 2001

Building humanity out of fragments. See also Theyskens' Theory and Christopher Shannon for Spring/Summer 2014. Bodies as triptych panels, partly sheer or horizontally colour blocked.
/HORST

"Prada Banality", Post-Painterly Art V

or 'Fashion For Intellectuals' (FFI)


1. Mark Rothko Untitled, 1969
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2013

The style of paintings and digital works that build the layers of Prada's new 'salary men' have a tendency for - and present the cohesive idea - of 'abstract gesture'. Some references are literal (pattern), others are analytical (layers) or conceptual (collars) - but overall they function as exercises in turning flat reduction into 3D reality.
/HORST

Now & Then VII

1. Acne Spring/Summer 2013
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012

There is a close connection/appreciation between Acne Studios and Raf 'Sandior' Simons. In this case, the almost unnoticed 'look 24' from 2012 delivers the main theme for 2013: block striped pyjamas. We might sleep, but our vision does never escape.
/HORST

Now & Then VI

Part V of 'Duplicate Diptych Week'



1. Prada Spring/Summer 2013
2. Prada Spring/Summer 1997

When Miuccia Prada is referring to... Miuccia Prada, family heritage becomes family business. The redesigned campaign for a re-retro signature: A colour block collar, a boyish haircut, a particular pose.
/HORST

Re-View

Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2013

Already looking forward to spring. The season as well as the 'season'. Spring/Summer 2013 to be exact. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2013 in particular. I still have no winter coat, by the way.
/HORST

Mesh-Up Syndrome

1. Viviane Sassen Indian: African Drum Beats, 10 Magazine Spring/Summer 2009
2. Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2001
3. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

The consolidation of two themes. The grid reappears as handprinted mesh (Ann Demeulemeester). The stripe as furry clip-on (Raf Simons). Together, they build 'A Short History Of Stripes & The Grid In Popular Tribal Culture'.
/HORST

Striation, Epilogue

Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane Fall/Winter 2007

For encyclopaedic reasons and in addition to my previous photo booth: the block stripe sweater in context of its runway presentation, January 2007. When we replace the label, we will all get our second chance.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

St. Prada Campus

Prada Spring/Summer 2013

It was a blend of Miuccia's golf cowboys from Spring/Summer 2012 and her Emergency Room scrubs from Spring/Summer 2011, extended by a parade of 'high waist' trompe l'œil trousers and the almost obligatory sandals with socks.

A bit Berlin second hand boutique, a bit public pool 'lost and found' corner, a bit humanistic campus picnic. All in all, it drew the image of a man I'd feel attracted to, having a glass of red and conversations on erotic architecture. Which, as it turns out, doesn't make any sense at all.
/HORST