Graduate Charts II

1. Asai Andrew Ta CSM BA Graduate Collection

2. Harry Evans CSM BA Graduate Collection

3. Flora Cadzow CSM BA Graduate Collection

They are coming. Mummified youth culture and shredded patchwork phantoms, miraculously not falling apart (Asai). They are twisted. Historic crochet sisters and fanatical knit nuns. Meet Marie Pearl Harbor (Harry). They are angry. Transparent tattoo bikers and religious tomboy boxers (Flora).
/HORST

Image credits Vogue

Graduate Charts

1. Andrew Sauceda CSM BA Graduate Collection

2. Michael Griffin CSM BA Graduate Collection

3. Ed Lee CSM BA Graduate Collection

Transgender aunts in strapless bustier gowns, workwear denim and floppy heads. The sexual revolution of a farmer's confused son (Andrew). The circus is in town and every male prostitute is going. An oriental silk costume drama with eruptive ending (Michael). Working 9 to 5 at the redlight wallstreet. Where horny investment bankers wear pinstripe suits and dragon tattoos, mixing business with pleasure (Ed).
/HORST

Image credits Vogue

Rug-Bi-Sexual

Jessica Mort Central Saint Martins Fall/Winter 2014

Taking a predetermined masculine idea and applying techniques that are traditonally perceived feminine (weaving, knitting, fraying), the polo shirt cliché is dissolving into gradient fringe dresses.
/HORST

A Short History Of The Plastic Raincoat In Popular Culture IV

1. Philip Lim Fall/Winter 2012
2. Veronique Branquinho Spring/Summer 2004
3. Aisling Farrell Graduate Collection 2012
4. Laurence Philomene for Snap Magazine
5. Bodybound Fall/Winter 2012, Pierre Cardin Spring/Summer 2011, Mugler Spring/Summer 2012

Maybe one of the most legendary series, the plastic raincoat recently gained the recognition it deserves and celebrated a comeback that dominates today's editorials and runways.
/HORST

P.S.: Post-edit upon popular request: the über-perfect version of a clear plastic raincoat by Mr. Raf Sander.


6. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

Post Graduate V

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Anita Hirlekar B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2012
2. Willi Baumeister Apoll, 1922
3. Samuel Drira & Sybille Walter encens 24, 2010

The lithographic image of women. An anti-sexualized, neutralized, androgynous graphic body. Birth child of Late Cubism and New Romanticism. If Braque was a Blitz Child. If Ann, Anita and Sybille were part of Les Demoiselles d'Avignon.
/HORST

Post Graduate IV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Luke Stevens B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2012
2. Yves Tanguy The Invisibles, 1951
3. Helmut Lang Make It Hard 2011

An assemblage of dip-dyed, glued-together pieces. Of raw, intuitive gestures, adding layer for layer for layer. Sportswear as a form of extreme DIY. Destruction as creation.
/HORST

Post Graduate III

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Sophie Lynas B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012
2. Alex Katz Blue Coat, 1993
3. Hans Wegner Daybed

The blue double-breasted pinstripe suit, the shorts, the oversized coat. A fusion of Belgian avantgarde, Danish design and American realism. Who has drunk from this cocktail will be perceiving a pleasant reality.
/HORST

Post Graduate II

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Sarah Simkins B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Céline Spring/Summer 2012
2. Fritz Winter Untitled, 1931
3. Carol Christian Poell Block shoes

We are naturally influenced by what surrounds us. It's not a failure, it's not a weakness. It's an automatism that can be applied to anyone concerned with aesthetics and creation. We all walk in someone else's shoes.
/HORST

Post Graduate

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Erin Hawkes B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2012
2. Gilbert & George Cabbage Worship, 1982
3. Robert Morris Untitled, 1976

First a close reference, secondly a related artwork, thirdly a random thing. Similar minds think alike and ideas are to be claimed. Whoever learns from the best and combines/manipulates their own thoughts will succeed.
/HORST