Voice Files III (German Edition)

Instant one-sentence-interviews recording the commentary of people that matter.


Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2014


"Grey suits like the curtains I’ve always wanted to get, deep purple that might smell like I’ve always wanted my living room to smell, the Jil Sander nonchalente seriousness with a twist for the ones who know it. It’s what both the professor and his students wear at the opening reception of their ski trip to Aspen, both not knowing why they are actually there."
/VINZENZ HOELZL, founder HUSK Magazine

"War der fast weinerliche Soundtrack zur Schau von den Tindersticks mit dem Titel 'She's Gone' ein Ausdruck des Vermissens der guten alten Zeit, als Mutter Jil Sander herself noch für das Design verantwortlich war? Jedenfalls scheint ihr langer Schatten, und der Raf Simons, das Haus noch nicht ganz verlassen zu haben. Die aktuelle Kollektion kommt wie ein Best of der letzten paar Jahre herüber: Leder, gepunktete Hemden, lange oversize Jacken, Filz und grafische Muster.
Wohin die ästhetische Reise gehen wird, sobald das verlassene Kind selbständig geworden ist, bleibt spannend."

/MAXIMILIAN BECKER, connoisseur and photographer

"Since Raf left Jil, the collections, whether done by her or a design team, leave me unaffected. Neither do I dislike the whole thing, nor does it make my heart go faster by excitement. Which is the worst, obviously."
/MARY SCHERPE, founder Stil In Berlin

"At first it was nothing but the colours. To me every look was a rare berry. Listing every different look would make for an exotic fruit mix. But that moment passed when I saw the whole collection. There is a break, of course, and different shades, which results in an important diversity that is so often missed. But all personal preferences aside, there is indeed something essential missing from this collection: a real warm winter coat."

/RAPHAELA ANOUK, artist Anouk Lamm Anouk

"Jil Sander without Jil Sander. The design team, orphans left behind by Raf and Heidemarie, payed tribute to their parents. A best of with alternating soundtrack. One song dedicated to him ('Depth'), one to her ('She's Gone'). And although rich in variation and been-before ideas, there was not anything visibly remarkable - except this one pair of metallic panelled trousers."
/HORST

Serious Moonlight

1. Andy Eaton Walked Out This Morning, Black Fall 2012
2. Alasdair McLellan Tomorrow Is Another Day, AnOther Man Fall 2012
3. Roberto Cavalli Spring/Summer 2013
4. Moschino Cheap & Chic Spring/Summer 2013
5. Unknown
6. Ola Rindal Rodeo Fall 2012

As indicated before, we are approaching another impossible 70s re-revival. Purple paisley and orange op-art. A combination that works best in pairs. Roberto has to finish what Miuccia begun.
/HORST

Absence II

Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2007

Ghost hands and other implants. When looking back at Hussein Chalayan '10 we are actually looking back at Rei Kawakubo '07. And some of us are even looking back at a handy 'Ghost' scene by Bruce Joel Rubin '90.
/HORST

Glitter Steroids

1. Nick Knight Beauty & The Beast, Arena Homme Plus #34
2. Sølve Sundsbø Think Pink!, Love Magazine #8

Love Magazine presents their first ever male centrefold pin-up. Jonathan Saunders. Smoking. Arena Homme Plus shows a double lipstick act for the cover story of issue #34: Heroes & Pin-Ups.
/HORST

Post Graduate

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Erin Hawkes B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2012
2. Gilbert & George Cabbage Worship, 1982
3. Robert Morris Untitled, 1976

First a close reference, secondly a related artwork, thirdly a random thing. Similar minds think alike and ideas are to be claimed. Whoever learns from the best and combines/manipulates their own thoughts will succeed.
/HORST