Double Feature V

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Iris & Daniel, discussing:
Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

Military fatigues infected by flower power, or the other way around. Before, they got married. Soldier and bride. Then they clashed. War and resistance. Then they dismantled. Grunge. Now they’re melted together, on the same body.

Everything was not really a skirt, or a shirt, or a dress, or a jacket. Lace annoying the shoulders and hems of an army jacket. Cargo pockets interrupting flounce. Plisé exploding from underneath aprons. Flat olive drab fronts ballooned in the back like a skydiving motorcyclist. We want to pick this apart and wear it with jeans. Maybe bell bottoms. Not nostalgically though, this collection wouldn’t let you be anywhere but now.

/IRIS&DANIEL

For some reason, those clothes reminded me of Rosemarie Trockel. Maybe just for the sound of the name. But also because of the sensuality for materials, her ceremaic and textile works. And then there was also some Kafka maybe. Because of the fur. Maybe.
/HORST





1. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015
2. Flower Power, 1967
3. Parachuting Dog, WWII
4. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2003
5. Nobuyoshi Araki Erotos, 1993
6. Prada Fall/Winter 2007
7. Rosemarie Trockel A Cosmos, 2013
8. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

Belated Regrets, And Again

1. Costume National Fall/Winter 2013
2. Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2013

It's too late to apologize. Clog and clog-alikes. Worn with or without socks. Missing something sucks. Luckily, fashion always returns. Some do, others follow, other-others are chasing missed opportunities. With or without socks. Think twice.
/HORST

Image credits Vogue.co.uk

A Short History Of Rent Boys In Popular Culture

1. David Zanes Rent Boys (DUTCH #6), 1996
2. D&G Spring/Summer 2000
3. DSquared Spring/Summer 2001
4. Dirk Bikkembergs Spring/Summer 2000
5. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014
6. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014

Before the metrosexual was the boytoy/toyboy. 1996-2000. In tank tops, fringe tops, leather tops, rubber boots. Until Beckham came. Only Hedi and Raf resisted througout. One of them returned to rubber boots.
/HORST

Paths Towards Modernity V

1. Versace Fall/Winter 2014
2. Richard Prince Untitled (Man's Hand On Pocket With Watch), 1980
3. Richard Prince Cowboys & Girlfriends, 1992
4. Versace Fall/Winter 2014
5. Versace Fall/Winter 2014
6. Richard Prince Untitled (Cowboy), 2001
7. Richard Prince Untitled (Original), 2009
8. Richard Prince Untitled, 2008
9. Versace 1980s
10. Versace Fall/Winter 2014
11. Versace Fall/Winter 2014
12. Richard Prince Nurse With Wings (Detail), 2003
13. Versace Fall/Winter 2013
14. Versace Fall/Winter 1994
15. Richard Prince Untitled, 2007

Richard Prince created the art practice of 'appropriation'. Regarded as one of the main players/actors of The Picture Generation he took pictures of pictures and declared them artworks of their own. With motorbike cowboys and vinyl nurses as subject, Prince plays with stereotypes and superstages them as cult of popular mainstream culture. And when cliché and sexism collide, Gianni and Donatella are not afar.
/HORST

Study Of Me, 2014

or 'A Mean Man'

Top Brynje
Trousers H&M

Maybe this is the essence. The substrate of maleness and maximum subtract of butch, applied to myself. The fetish of male psychology between Kafka and Klein, my literary and aesthetic food. You are what you put in your mouth.
/HORST

Sherman Questions XV

1. Cindy Sherman at Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2014
2. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2011

So what would Cindy Sherman wear? The real Cindy Sherman. Not her 'other' portrayed self. She does, in fact, wear the 'lesbian collection' - those celebrated buckle boots. In blue crocodile leather. By Balenciaga. By Nicolas Ghesquière. And short hair. At this morning's Louis Vuitton show.
/HORST

Image credits WWD