Double Feature V

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Iris & Daniel, discussing:
Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

Military fatigues infected by flower power, or the other way around. Before, they got married. Soldier and bride. Then they clashed. War and resistance. Then they dismantled. Grunge. Now they’re melted together, on the same body.

Everything was not really a skirt, or a shirt, or a dress, or a jacket. Lace annoying the shoulders and hems of an army jacket. Cargo pockets interrupting flounce. Plisé exploding from underneath aprons. Flat olive drab fronts ballooned in the back like a skydiving motorcyclist. We want to pick this apart and wear it with jeans. Maybe bell bottoms. Not nostalgically though, this collection wouldn’t let you be anywhere but now.

/IRIS&DANIEL

For some reason, those clothes reminded me of Rosemarie Trockel. Maybe just for the sound of the name. But also because of the sensuality for materials, her ceremaic and textile works. And then there was also some Kafka maybe. Because of the fur. Maybe.
/HORST





1. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015
2. Flower Power, 1967
3. Parachuting Dog, WWII
4. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2003
5. Nobuyoshi Araki Erotos, 1993
6. Prada Fall/Winter 2007
7. Rosemarie Trockel A Cosmos, 2013
8. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

Prada Fantasies

Prada Spring/Summer 2008

Prada collections that I missed and am missing. Prada collections that were to early for being late. Great Prada collections that should belong to me and our collective heart forever.
/HORST

Hip Teens Over 30

Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2014

Have we yet discussed the best collection for 2014? Junya Watanabe was quite close - with shredded hippie anti-structures. And now, after a few weeks of thinking, I came to the conclusion that it is Yohji's time. Fluoroscent neon bigotry, disgusting, hip and trendy, self-questioning, fantastic.
/HORST

A Photo Booth Biennale, Epilogue IV

A second look at The Artwork Will Be Present, 2013.





1. Ida Applebroog Work in Progress, 2005
2. Ida Applebroog You Are The Patient, 1969–2011
3. Ida Applebroog Monalisa, 2007
4. Ida Applebroog Unknown (Dora)

In a way, Applebroog sums up the world and everything that counts: water colour genitals, explicit clay content, distorted comic/al bodies. Her message(s) seem so clear, they are calling for miss-understanding.
/HORST

Helmut Dialogues VI

1. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2004
2. Dior Spring/Summer 2013

When he presented his first ready-to-wear collection for Dior, Raf Simons wore a denim jacket with three painted stripes from Helmut Lang, released in 1995. The year when Raf Simons started his own menswear label.
/HORST