Double Feature V

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Iris & Daniel, discussing:
Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

Military fatigues infected by flower power, or the other way around. Before, they got married. Soldier and bride. Then they clashed. War and resistance. Then they dismantled. Grunge. Now they’re melted together, on the same body.

Everything was not really a skirt, or a shirt, or a dress, or a jacket. Lace annoying the shoulders and hems of an army jacket. Cargo pockets interrupting flounce. Plisé exploding from underneath aprons. Flat olive drab fronts ballooned in the back like a skydiving motorcyclist. We want to pick this apart and wear it with jeans. Maybe bell bottoms. Not nostalgically though, this collection wouldn’t let you be anywhere but now.

/IRIS&DANIEL

For some reason, those clothes reminded me of Rosemarie Trockel. Maybe just for the sound of the name. But also because of the sensuality for materials, her ceremaic and textile works. And then there was also some Kafka maybe. Because of the fur. Maybe.
/HORST





1. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015
2. Flower Power, 1967
3. Parachuting Dog, WWII
4. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2003
5. Nobuyoshi Araki Erotos, 1993
6. Prada Fall/Winter 2007
7. Rosemarie Trockel A Cosmos, 2013
8. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015

Positive Extremism

1. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2015
2. John Galliano Fall/Winter 1997
3. Collier Schorr Base Portraits/Barracks, 2005

Straight pacifism. The most admirable beings united. Rei, Raf, Collier. Nipster fashion for the pre-digital, post-digital age. Those of us you live analogue digially. In Real Life. In Real Love. On- and offline.
/HORST

Inspired by Alexander Fury

Fashion Charts VI

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2014

2. Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2014

3. J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2014

Longing for the cinched and pinched. With underlying masochistic pain and German-ness. The game of codes (Jil/Anonymous), the touch of ghosts (Tomas), the loss of hopes (Jonathan). Be ready for the touch of invisible hands.
/HORST

Post Graduate IV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Luke Stevens B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2012
2. Yves Tanguy The Invisibles, 1951
3. Helmut Lang Make It Hard 2011

An assemblage of dip-dyed, glued-together pieces. Of raw, intuitive gestures, adding layer for layer for layer. Sportswear as a form of extreme DIY. Destruction as creation.
/HORST