Double Feature

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Ana Hernández Cornet, discussing:
Vetements Spring/Summer 2015

An off-key play with school of Margiela proportions that feels innocent and pristine, yet awkwardly sexy. A lurking feeling of something violent about to happen. Yet a warm and fuzzy feeling, like being naked under a pink fur coat.

/ANA

Conservatism and boredom, broken with elements of 'off'. As if Martin Margiela was still 'alive' or as if his twin brother built a parallel world. The team at Maison Martin Margiela does a great job to maintain and continue the legacy of its founder. Vetements, the anonymous collective formed around a former Margiela protégé, re-builts this legacy. Something is happening.
/HORST





1. Vetements Spring/Summer 2015
2. Unknown (Maison Martin Margiela scarification)
3. Jamie Hawkesworth South Shields, 2012
4. Luke Gilford Maison Martin Margiela, 2011
5. Yrjö Edelmann Untitled, 1985
6. Thomas Ruff Portraits, 1984-1985
7. William Selden Masters Of Invention (Dazed & Confused), 2011
8. Vetements Spring/Summer 2015

Denudity

Hood By Air Fall/Winter 2014

Remove the three letters, ignore the branding and the sportswear stripes. Take the pieces that no one dares to buy. Remove your clothes. Let the thoughts behind those garments uncover you.
/HORST

A Short History Of Rent Boys In Popular Culture (Interlude)

1. José Manuel Ferrater Beach Goth, 2009
2. John Galliano Spring/Summer 2001

Boots as a man's men's essential. Or, respectively alternatively, thigh-high socks. The high shaft correlates to an emphasized or exposed crotch area. How I wish for a return of the 2000s.
/HORST

A Short History Of Rent Boys In Popular Culture

1. David Zanes Rent Boys (DUTCH #6), 1996
2. D&G Spring/Summer 2000
3. DSquared Spring/Summer 2001
4. Dirk Bikkembergs Spring/Summer 2000
5. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014
6. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014

Before the metrosexual was the boytoy/toyboy. 1996-2000. In tank tops, fringe tops, leather tops, rubber boots. Until Beckham came. Only Hedi and Raf resisted througout. One of them returned to rubber boots.
/HORST

Full Circle, or: Happy Quickly After

1. Jürgen Teller Sarah Lucas At Home, 2013
2. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014
3. Alasdair McLellan Arena Homme Plus, 2014
4. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby Fall/Winter 2014 & Jürgen Teller Sarah Lucas At Home, 2013

What started between Sarah and Jürgen in an intimate home story, has been picked up and processed in a labour of love between Raf and Sterling - just to be shot again, with Alasdair washing the acid dishes.
/HORST

Patchwork, 2013

or 'A Story Of His Own'






















Shirt Bruno Pieters
Boots Raf Simons x Doc Martens
Coat Jil Sander

In lack of light and the possibility to create 'newness', I have recycled 'unused material' of previous photo booth installations. A tribute to the 'glitch' movement of images with errors.
/HORST

Legs, Crossed

1. Horst P. Horst Barefoot Beauty (variant), 1941
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2010

A collection that was unjustly underrated. And deserves closer inspection, once again. When regret is overcoming us, we will realize that it is always of advantage to look up and listen to Horst.
/HORST