Voice Files III (German Edition)

Instant one-sentence-interviews recording the commentary of people that matter.


Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2014


"Grey suits like the curtains I’ve always wanted to get, deep purple that might smell like I’ve always wanted my living room to smell, the Jil Sander nonchalente seriousness with a twist for the ones who know it. It’s what both the professor and his students wear at the opening reception of their ski trip to Aspen, both not knowing why they are actually there."
/VINZENZ HOELZL, founder HUSK Magazine

"War der fast weinerliche Soundtrack zur Schau von den Tindersticks mit dem Titel 'She's Gone' ein Ausdruck des Vermissens der guten alten Zeit, als Mutter Jil Sander herself noch für das Design verantwortlich war? Jedenfalls scheint ihr langer Schatten, und der Raf Simons, das Haus noch nicht ganz verlassen zu haben. Die aktuelle Kollektion kommt wie ein Best of der letzten paar Jahre herüber: Leder, gepunktete Hemden, lange oversize Jacken, Filz und grafische Muster.
Wohin die ästhetische Reise gehen wird, sobald das verlassene Kind selbständig geworden ist, bleibt spannend."

/MAXIMILIAN BECKER, connoisseur and photographer

"Since Raf left Jil, the collections, whether done by her or a design team, leave me unaffected. Neither do I dislike the whole thing, nor does it make my heart go faster by excitement. Which is the worst, obviously."
/MARY SCHERPE, founder Stil In Berlin

"At first it was nothing but the colours. To me every look was a rare berry. Listing every different look would make for an exotic fruit mix. But that moment passed when I saw the whole collection. There is a break, of course, and different shades, which results in an important diversity that is so often missed. But all personal preferences aside, there is indeed something essential missing from this collection: a real warm winter coat."

/RAPHAELA ANOUK, artist Anouk Lamm Anouk

"Jil Sander without Jil Sander. The design team, orphans left behind by Raf and Heidemarie, payed tribute to their parents. A best of with alternating soundtrack. One song dedicated to him ('Depth'), one to her ('She's Gone'). And although rich in variation and been-before ideas, there was not anything visibly remarkable - except this one pair of metallic panelled trousers."
/HORST

A Short History Of The Comic Strip In Popular Culture IV

1. Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2009
2. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 1987
3. Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2004
4. Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2002
5. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2007

The Yohji Yamamoto appreciation edition. Throughout the years, comic derivates re-appear within the menswear collections. Ranging from stylized hand silhouettes to Geisha portraits and pixelized computer characters. From poetic to rather ridiculous, they reflect a constant 'twinkle in the eye' as core of an aesthetic universe.
/HORST

Helmut Dialogues V

1. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2005
2. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2013

"That is especially my aim the last couple of years. That once it creates a dialogue, it's good. Whether if it's a good or a bad reaction. The best is always when there is a mix of reactions, I think." - Raf SImons
/HORST

Helmut Dialogues III

1. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2004
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012

It was the tear-dropping, last and celebrated collection of Raf Simons for Jil Sander for Helmut Lang. A metallic homage that left (no one) speechless. But the battle for fatherhood will be continued on an arena known as 'Dior Haute Couture'.
/HORST

Identity Crisis

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2013
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2013

After a recurrent tribute to Helmut Lang via Jil Sander (the cross, the show credit print), Raf is channeling Miuccia. Just like Bette Midler and Lily Tomlin in Big Business (1988) someone swapped bodies. But somehow something got lost in transmission. And comedy turns into grotesque horror, see The Fly (1958).
/HORST

Overprojected, 2012

or 'Gif Me More'










































Last week, Horst hosted the first Thursday is Britney, bitch! party. We served pastel coloured candy, White Russians, goodie bags with racy content and prepared a rose petal foam bath for our guests. Horst even premiered a song he wrote for Britney while video projections exhilarated the night.
/HORST

Peut-être, Feu d'être, 2012

or 'Solarizations'














Underwear The White Briefs

In analogy to the wordplays of Man Ray, the maybe of 'peut-être' also implicates 'peu d'être' (a little bit of being) and is further concluded in 'feu d'être' which refers to the bare torso (the little bit of being) transformed into a sunburned version of David, marked by the 'fire of life', the countryside sun.
/HORST

Courtesy of Bungalow Gallery