Exhibitionist, 2012

or 'For Your Eyes Only'













Coat Whyred
Backless T-shirt Laitinen

His uniform is oversized, his coat unbuttoned. Hands casually hidden in deep pockets, carefully controlling the moment of reveal and indecent exposure. He is a son of Raf Sander.
/HORST

Mrs. Raf Sander, Epilogue

or 7 Reasons why the Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013 collection, presented by Jil Sander, was in fact designed by Raf Simons



1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2009 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"What I’ve been conscious of, from the beginning, is that I can’t be Jil Sander." - Raf Simons


2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"I was expecting a difficult path but immediately the reception was good and I was being called son of Jil Sander." - Raf Simons


3. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2010 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"Men's fashion is more complicated than women's." - Raf Simons


4. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2007 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"I spend a lot of time reading about artists, trying to figure out how they approached something." - Raf Simons


5. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2009 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"I am somebody who focuses on a dialogue between generations - that's the drive of my work." - Raf Simons


6. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
"In this business, I know I could work somewhere else one day." - Raf Simons


7. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2009 vs. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2013
“I am having to bring it back to our heritage.” - Jil Sander

Placement of typography, the grainy structure, the oversized suit, the sleeveless and the hourglass jacket. It is easy to identify constitutive elements of Raf Simons' design language. Jil Sander will need more time. Her real return will be in womenswear.
/HORST

Post Graduate III

A false encyclopaedic guide to the Central Saint Martins collections, presenting:
Sophie Lynas B.A. Graduate Collection 2012

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012
2. Alex Katz Blue Coat, 1993
3. Hans Wegner Daybed

The blue double-breasted pinstripe suit, the shorts, the oversized coat. A fusion of Belgian avantgarde, Danish design and American realism. Who has drunk from this cocktail will be perceiving a pleasant reality.
/HORST