The World's Sexiest Homoerotic Fashion Campaigns

1. Terry Richardson Sisley Fall/Winter 2009
2. Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott DSquared Spring/Summer 2011
3. Terry Richardson Gucci Fall/Winter 2001
4. Mario Sorrenti Lanvin Fall/Winter 2001
5. Mario Sorrenti Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 1994
6. Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott Givenchy Fall/Winter 2010
7. Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott Givenchy Fall/Winter 2009
8. Craig McDean Prada Sport Spring/Summer 2008
9. Terry Richardson Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2008
10. David LaChapelle Patrick Cox, 2003

After the celebrated and never forgotten The World's Sexiest Male Fashion Designers, it is time for a sequel. Who is pushing same sex boundaries? Depictions of wishful thinking, 'sex sells' and the provoked side effects of luxury. Everything for journalistic, humanist and historical reasons.
/HORST

Stitch & Repair: Frankenstein

1. Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2013
2. Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2013
3. Givenchy Fall/Winter 2013

Undead, broken, reassembled. The open-heart experiments of Ownes, Tisci and Kane. A living study in 'plastic' surgery, all connected by one thick thread. Also known as: Anti-Couture.
/HORST

A Short History Of The Comic Strip In Popular Culture V

1. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2003
2. Dirk Bikkembergs Fall/Winter 2003
3. Felix, the Cat 1919
4. Popeye, the Sailor 1919
5. Moschino Cheap & Chic, 1995
6. Givenchy Fall/Winter 2013
7. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2005

The use of comic characters in fashion. Felix, the Cat appears at Helmut Lang and Dirk Bikkembergs. Olivia (from Popeye, the Sailor) becomes the alter ego for Moschino. Bambi is cut and pasted into Givenchy while Pink Panther functions as declared muse for Rei Kawakubo. What does it tell us? It tells stories without telling stories. It's a pastiche, a placeholder. a licence deal. An epic history in thousand chapters with the ultimate cliffhanger: hanger appeal.
/HORST

Post Paris XXVII

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Christopher Shannon, discussing:
Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2013

Louise Wilson would say on the MA "It doesn't matter what you do, what's important is that you do it well", this really applies to Comme des Garçons. Without the great fabric, fit and finishing it could fall into scary BA collection territory. I'm always astounded by how well the pieces are made and the exploration and repetition of a few ideas. It's such a palette cleanser from the depressing abundance of hard lines, tight dresses and overly high shoes, so nice to see work that designers have touched. Still have no idea if anyone buys it though, apart from a few ageing gallery owners and art teachers.

/CHRISTOPHER

Extreme tailoring, shredded and über-constructed. Of origami roses, bows and knots. Like the neurotic, twisted fantasy of a lesbian investment broker. With a surrealist power suit parade, Rei Kawakubo is introducing Japanese Psycho. And once again, it all is like nothing before.
/HORST








1. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2013
2. Amethyst Uruguay
3. Brian Ford Finchley N Gauge Scenic Model Railway Layout, 2012
4. Givenchy Vogue pattern, 1997
5. Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2001
6. Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2013
7. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 1995
8. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2013

All about Christopher Shannon

Granularity IV

1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2013
2. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2010
3. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2003
4. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

The Raf Sander universe is a hermeneutic one. The face reappears. From Bauhaus and Brian Calvin at Raf Simons to Tsuguharu Foujita and Picasso at Jil Sander. It's a two-faced story.
/HORST

Appendix: Looking back, looking left and right.

5. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2003
6. Givenchy Spring/Summer 2013

Balenciaga Questions XVIII

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2003
2. Givenchy Fall/Winter 2010

Probably one of my most favourite series, the infamous Balenciaga Questions are back for a short recall. This time revealing the alpine love affair between Nicolas and Riccardo.
/HORST